Fundu Lifestyle

FutureGirls - A comprehensive online Fashions' Marketplace

2009-01-11T23:30:00.000-08:00

Friends, just recently I happened to visit a very good website for fashion. It has got everything as far as fashion goes. You can find stuff related to Makeup, Hair, Clothing, shoes, Bags, Jewelry, Electronics and so on. The fashion items are available for all categories from parties, romance, travel etc. You can even find lots of tips and hints about fashion on the website. The website also features fashion accessories for Men, Kids, Babies and even Pets. So I feel its a complete package that has everything for everyone to look fashionable.

To know more or experience yourself, visit FutureGirls (http://www.futuregirls.net/).

Vancouver Lawyers

2008-10-09T00:31:00.000-07:00

Vancouver Lawyers -WMSB Law Offices

902 Esther Street

Vancouver, WA 98660

Cure your Nasal Problems

2008-09-30T10:18:00.000-07:00

If you are suffering from:

* Nasal Congestion (such as from colds or allergies)
* Chronic Sinusitis
* Recurrent sore throats and post nasal drip
* Snoring due to nasal blockage
* Ear blockage while flying or scuba diving
* Asthma with sinusitis
* Exposure to (most) allergens
* Restoring the health of your sinuses after exposure to smoke, smog or other chemicals

Consider trying pulsatile irrigation from Dr. Grossan:

"A particularly helpful strategy in the treatment and prevention of chronic sinusitis is saline washing using the Grossan Sinus Irrigator."
Patient Care Magazine/February 1997
Gary Rachelefsky, M.D.
Associate Director Allergy-Immunology U.C.L.A School of Medicine Los Angeles, CA
Raymond G. Slavin M.D.
Professor of Internal Medicine St. Louis University School of Medicine, St. Louis, Mo.
Ellen R. Wald, M.D.
Professor of Pediatrics-Otolaryngology, Children's Hospital of Pittsburgh, Pittsburgh, PA

grossan hydropulse

If you have skin allergies or sensitive skin.. or just health conscious and want to avoid toxic ingredients you should try: Organic Makeup Mineral Makeup

Real Estate Opportunity in Columbus

2008-09-29T00:01:00.000-07:00

Columbus is the Capital city of Ohio State and is named after explorer Christopher Columbus. This has been rated eighth ranking amongst the best big cities to stay in United States by the noted Money Magazine. With the developments taking place in the fields of technology, education, healthcare and diversified businesses, the city is emerging prominently on a global stage.
Columbus itself isn't short of real estate, with an ever increasing new build rate, and a growing population. This transpires into a demand-led marketplace, which makes trading in property and real estate development, a profitable and relatively prudent market to enter.
Columbus, the most vibrant and largest city in Ohio State, is home to bustling professionals and students aplenty, with large insurance and education sectors in the City. Famed for its distinctive metal 'arches' across High Street, Columbus is not only a busy economic hub, but also an emerging tourist attraction. What better place than Columbus to invest in property? Additionally, the fact that the average house price sits reasonably in comparison to national figures makes it the perfect investment opportunity for the long-term prospect. With minimal investment, any developer can turn a homestead into a sought after dream residence, in this beautiful city with so much potential. There has been so much of encouragement for the technology related and other industry sectors. This has create big scope for more employment and this means more people willing to relocate here for new jobs. All this in turn affects the value of the real estate here.
Investing in real estate is something which can be done as a consortium, a company, or a personal venture. In Ohio, you are most likely to require a mortgage over the property before you buy, to ensure you have enough liquid capital to complete the transaction. Of course, this is where the element of risk lies, given that the mortgage must be paid back as required, even if you don't have a paying tenant in place. Additionally, you can add to this the cost of renovating or decorating the property, and attracting prospective tenants or buyers also comes at a cost. Ultimately, it's with experience that you become more successful at real estate development, which is one reason it may be better to seek a consortium of investors.
Lots of insurance companies have set up their offices here. Big brands like Nationwide Insurance, Grange Insurance, Motorists Insurance, Safe Auto Insurance, and State Auto Insurance all made Columbus their home for business. Even the Fast Food chains such as Charley's Grilled Subs, Steak Escape, and White Castle, Cameron Mitchell Restaurants, Bob Evans Restaurants, Max & Erma's, Damon's Grill, and Donatos Pizza have also set up themseleves here. This has made the city very attractive and entertaining.
Additionally, numerous investors can help foot the deposit on the mortgage, which can often be required to up to 30% of the total value of the property. Add to that the fact that you can also share any loses, and share responsibility for payment of the mortgage with your compatriots, and you have a fairly stable and safe environment for investing in real estate. Alternatively, you might like to consider incorporation for the event, although this isn't likely to greatly affect your liability on any mortgage. In fact, as a result of limited liability, mortgage lenders often require personal guarantees from the company's promoters to minimise their risk. If you are seriously considering investing in real estate, it may be wise to seek legal advice on the issue beforehand, to help you come to terms with Ohio law, and any intricacies involved with buying real estate in Columbus.
Real estate is seen as the pinnacle of investment; the appreciating asset which can also generate revenue. Although this can be a risky and tough business, Columbus Ohio is full of opportunities, waiting for exploitation from the budding property investor.
It is however, importantly to consult a reputable Columbus Ohio real estate agent, who resides in this city so that an investor get the right guidance and advice on the kind of property available, the areas where they are available and most importantly get the right prices on such properties.

Web hosting

2008-09-20T20:58:00.000-07:00

A web hosting service allows individuals organizations to provide their own website accessible via the World Wide Web. Websites are typically hosted on either dedicated, virtual dedicated, or shared server. A decicated server is when a single server is used by only one website. This is typically used by companies requiring high bandwidth and very fast transaction processing.

Most hosting services use a virtual dedicated or shared server where several websites are hosted on a single machine. These services are intended to be used by small, to medium businesses with lower service requirements and that are looking for economic hosting services often times for less than $7 per month.

Learn more about cheap web hosting.

Blog about Health & Cosmetics

2008-09-18T04:59:00.000-07:00

Pulsatile Sinus Irrigation is a gentle, pulsating stream to cleanse & moisturize the sinuses and massage the cilia of the nose and sinuses to their normal, healthy state.
One type of product for pulsatile irrigation to help Sinusitis is the Hydropulse, and the Sinupulse, which are another method of Nasal Douche, Nasal Rinse, Nasal Rinsing, Nasal Wash, Sinus Wash, Saline Wash, nasal irrigation.
Other benefits of pulsatile irrigation include: stop snoring, sleep apnia, blocked sinus, blocked nose, sinus cleanse
What do doctors say are the benefits of sinus irrigation? Among them are reducing nasal congestion, cleansing and ridding the sinus cavities of allergens, irritants, and contaminants, treating chronic sinusitis, treat acute bacterial rhinosinusitis, stopping snoring, stop snoring, blocked nose, and congested sinuses....
Some Examples of Organic Mineral Makeup in Europe:Mineral Bronzers Pure Mineral Foundation Organic Mineral Foundation Mineral Setting Powder Mineral Blush Mineral Eye Shadows Mineral Ultra Matte Eye Shadows Mineral Lipstick Starter Kits Vegan Brushes Mineral Makeup Samples Autumn Trends & Colours Organic Antioxidants Healthy Skin Mineral Makeup Reviews Testimonials End of Summer Sale Afterglow Cosmetics
Some Examples of Organic Mineral Makeup in the US and Canada:Autumn Trends & Colours Organic Antioxidants Healthy Skin Mineral Makeup Reviews Testimonials End of Summer Sale Afterglow Cosmetics Mineral Bronzer Mineral Foundation Mineral Setting Powder Mineral Blush Mineral Eye Shadow Mineral Ultra Matte Eye Shadow Mineral Lipstick Makeup Starter Kits Vegan Brushes Mineral Makeup Samples
The SinusHealthCenter.com is a local resource for articles and products by leading ENT specialist doctors for help with sinus related challenges such as sinus infections, migraine headaches, and chronic sinusitis.

Helpful Products Include: Sinus Irrigation Capsaicin Capsicum Pepper Nasal Spray Nasal Sprays and Solutions Natural Enzymes and Homeopathics Sinus Health Books

Articles About Sinusitis, Sinus Irrigation, Migraines, and Allergies Sinusitis Frequent Questions About Sinus Irrigation What is Pulsatile Sinus Irrigation Headaches and Migraines Snoring Antibiotic Dependency Allergy Prevention

Additional Products Include: Sinus Buster: Allergy Nasal Spray Sinus Buster: Classic Nasal Spray for Sinus and Nasal Congestion Sinus Buster: Sinus Buster: Migraine Headache Relief Sinus Buster: Natural Nasal Spray for Sinus and Nasal Congestion Sinol Migraine Relief Sinol Allergy & Sinus Relief Clear-ease Natural Enzymes for Sinus Health Breathe-ease Nasal Moisturizing Solution with Bottle Breathe-ease Nasal Moisturizing Solution Grossan Hydro Pulse Sinus System for EU and UK Dr. Hana’s Nasopure Nasal Wash System Sinupulse Sinus Irrigation System SinuCleanse Neti Pot Breathe-ease Nasal Solution with Lavage Bottle The SinuCleanse Squeeze

High Speed Internet Service

2008-09-15T22:09:00.000-07:00

Today internet has become lifeline for almost all businesses. And in order to succeed, you need to have high speed internet service to give your business and users rich experience of internet browsing. So it becomes extremely important to find right kind of internet service which will provide high speed connection. While deciding upon the internet service, you should look for following benefits:

1. No contract,
2. Free equipment (Router, Cable modem). Ask about a wireless card for you desktop or notebook
3. Discount for bundled services
4. Personal email accounts
5. Personal webpage and storage for savings your pictures, videos, and even setting up your own blog.
6. 24/7 Support
7. Spam filters for emails

Learn more about "High Speed Internet Service"

tuxedos

2008-09-12T04:15:00.000-07:00

The tuxedos are the man's dress suits of clothes in the semi-formal, black tie evening dress convention. Tuxedos helps in increasing man's appearance and attractiveness. Tuxedos have been high end and expensive. Because of their pricing, people used to rent them to celebrate their special occasions.

But instead of renting them out one can buy them for less at fine tuxedos. One can shop tuxedos by their pricing, designers, jacket styles, color and so on. The website offers for variety of tuxedos packages, individual items, accessories at affordable prices.

I liked it very much. You can also check this out at fine tuxedos.

pilates new york

2008-09-12T01:12:00.000-07:00

pilates new york is about dedication to education in the physical art of Pilates, and any fitness technique upholding the sound principles of the original Joseph H. Pilates method.

re:AB Pilates provides authentic, skilled and motivational fitness instruction to inspire clients to reach greater self-sufficiency in an encouraging, safe and supportive environment.

A very good place to get train for physical fitness training.

To know more please visit pilates new york.

Top Tips When Buying Home Appliances | Appliances

2008-06-22T07:54:00.000-07:00

Everyone loves a great deal - everyone loves to come home from shopping and brag about something that they bought that they got on sale at half price. There are items that you can buy on sale without worrying about.
Things like food, (as long as you check the expiry date!) books, shoes, some furniture, etc. There are other items, however, that you should be careful and wary to buy on sale. These items include furniture, electronics and appliances.This does not mean that you can't or shouldn't buy your appliances on sale. In fact, I would suggest looking around for the best deal when it comes time to make these kinds of purchases. However, be wary of deals that are too good to be true. You know what they say - if it is too good to be true, it probably is! The same is true for home appliances. The reason to be careful when shopping for your home appliances is because the "new" appliance you think you are getting at such a good deal may actually be a pre-owned appliance. Not all appliance stores will do this, but some will, so be sure to ask some good questions when you see an appliance marked down a lot.Another reason to be wary of big markdowns on home appliances is because the appliance may have something wrong with it. Sometimes stores will mark an appliance down because of a scratch or small dent in the exterior, and most people won't mind these things. However, if you see an appliance marked down and you cannot find anything wrong with it, make sure to ask the store exactly what is wrong with the appliance. There could be something broken inside the mechanism, or the warranty on the appliance could be void.Some other tips for buying a home appliance would be to prepare before you go shopping. Take a few minutes and measure the spaces inside of your home where you would like the appliances to go. Many people go shopping without doing this and then get excited about finding a great deal on a home appliance. They bring the appliance home and are very disappointed to find out that it won't fit where they need it. This is a waste of time and money, so be sure to measure before shopping!Before you start your appliance shopping, you should also do your research. Sometimes people just buy the cheapest appliance they can find, but the cheapest is not always the best. The internet is a great tool of research, and you can look up well-known brand names and compare and contrast until you find the right one for you and your home. Another great way to do research about home appliances is to ask around. Many people have had experience buying appliances for their homes, and would be glad to share some of their experiences and advice with you. Also, take interior design into account. If you have a really dark kitchen and enjoy that look, it would be very incongruous to buy white appliances. It's important to keep design in mind. And finally, remember to research, measure and ask lots of questions.
A well-stocked kitchen is a thing of beauty. Having beautiful kitchen appliances like a nice new refrigerator or a shiny oven really adds to the look of your home, and it's important to research your options before you commit to buying.

Money Saving Refrigerator Tips

2008-06-22T07:50:00.000-07:00

One of the most costly appliances to run in your household is the refrigerator. It's also one of the most neglected appliances in many households. I have compiled some tips to help cut down how much energy you have to use to keep food cool.

Maintenance is Key:
Since your refrigerator, is on, using electricity 24 hours a day, maintenance is very important. Keep the seals on the door clean and check for cracks. You can do this easily with a sponge and a little elbow grease. If you have cracked seals you should consider replacing them. Clean the condenser coils at the back or bottom of your refrigerator at least once a year. You can use a vacuum to remove dust and debris from the coils and then gently wipe them with a rag. Also, be sure to defrost manual-defrost freezers when the frost is more than 1/4 inch thick.

Old and Inefficient:
If you have a refrigerator from the early 70's or before, it probably costs you more than 3 times as much to operate than a refrigerator you would buy today. You may want to consider upgrading to a newer refrigerator. It may not sound like a good way to save money, but a newer refrigerator uses much less energy, tends to have more features and uses a more environmentally friendly method to cool.If you are buying a new refrigerator, look for the Energy Star Label. Energy Star is a collaboration between the U.S. Department of Energy, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and many companies which is designed to prevent pollution by helping consumers buy products that use less energy. You can find more information at: http://www.energystar.gov/about.html

Energy Cost Vs. Grocery Savings:
There is an ongoing debate on whether the additional storage that a second refrigerator offers is worth the expense. If you have your old refrigerator out in the garage with a case of soda pop in it (many people I know do), the answer is no. Especially if it's an older fridge that uses more energy. You are spending more to cool your soda pop than your food inside in your primary fridge. So while it seems like a frugal use of your old fridge, it could be costing your $150.00 or more a year to run it.

Running Tips:
Don't set your refrigerator's temperature too low. The colder it gets the more it costs to run. Set the refrigerator's temperature to between 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit (3 to 6 degrees Celcius) and your freezer to between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-17 to -15 degrees Celcius).Leave room around your food in the fridge. Try to leave an inch clear around the inner walls of the fridge. This will allow air to flow around the food. Food does retain cold better than air, so don't worry about filling your fridge, but leave room for air to circulate. In your freezer, you don't need to leave room for air, it's best to pack food close together. In fact, if you have extra space in your freezer you can put water bottles to fill unused space and help retain cold.Try to avoid staring in the fridge for long periods of time and don't leave the door open while you do something else. The tough part is getting children or teenagers to do this. The more the door is opened, the more energy your refrigerator will use.Lastly, try to avoid putting warm leftovers in your refrigerator. Let them cool to room temperature and then put them in.

How to Harvest Shellfish

2008-06-22T07:46:00.000-07:00

Clams
The most common form of harvest for clams is hand digging or picking. The common tool is an ordinary short-tined garden rake. Butter clams lay lower under the surface and a garden-type, long-handled potato fork is used to harvest the species. Razor clams are dug individually with a short-handled, thin bladed shovel. Harvesters are encouraged to fill in holes to reduce predation on exposed juvenile clams.
Harvesting clams that are undersized is prohibited. The size limit for clams must be measured in a straight line through the greatest breadth of the shell. Minimum harvestable sizes are as follows: littlenecks 38 millimetres, butter 63 millimetres, Manila 38 millimetres and razor 90 millimetres.

Crabs
Crabs are most commonly harvested using traps or ring nets. They are occasionally collected from shallow waters by hand, using SCUBA or dip nets. Sport and Native fishermen may use any of these methods. Commercial fishermen generally use traps or ring nets. Traps are frames covered with webbing to form an enclosure. Crabs gain access to the enclosure through a tunnel or door. The doors or tunnels may be triggered to form a one-way entrance. Ring nets are simply a circular frame holding a bag of web. Crabs are captured in the web bag when they cross the edge of the frame and the frame is lifted. Traps and ring nets are baited with fish, squid, clams, offal or fish food pellets. Crabs enter the trap or ring net to feed on the bait or to investigate other crab activity. Ring nets are fished on single lines. Traps may be fished singly or on long lines with multiple traps.
Size limits are used as the primary conservation measure in the dungeness crab fishery. In British Columbia, the size limit is 165 millimetres across the maximum breadth of the carapace. The size limit is designed to protect sexually mature male dungeness crab for at least one year prior to harvest. Female dungeness crabs rarely exceed the 165 millimetre size limit, but are further protected from the commercial fishery through a sex restriction that limits the harvest to male crab only. Undersized and female crabs must be returned to the water, immediately upon capture. Legal-sized female crabs may be retained by recreational and First Nations fishers. The protection of females and a significant portion of the mature males in dungeness crab populations ensures that harvestable stocks will be sustained.
Geoduck Geoducks are harvested commercially by divers using high pressure water delivered through a nozzle (known as a "stinger"), which loosens the surface around the clam and allows the diver to lift the clams out live. Geoducks are quickly shipped to processing plants where they are packed and usually delivered live to Asian markets. The recreational fishery is limited to hand-digging methods. Commercial gear (stingers) cannot be used for sport harvest.

Octopus
The octopus fishery is located primarily in south coast areas with the majority of octopuses landed by divers from the areas along the east coast of Vancouver Island from Port Hardy to Sooke. Reported landings of octopuses by divers from areas on the west coast of Vancouver Island have been relatively minor. Octopuses are primarily harvested by dive-fishing methods, however there is a limited by-catch in some trap and trawl fisheries. No hooks, gaffs, spears or sharp pointed instruments are permitted when harvesting octopuses. Bleach or other chemicals are also strictly prohibited.

Prawn
Commercial traps come in a variety of different designs including double ring traps, wire mesh traps, bucket traps and box traps. All must meet minimum mesh size and maximum volume size requirements. Multiple traps are strung on long, weighted lines between two floats. Sport fishing traps are as varied in design as commercial traps. Sport fishers are allowed to use a small mesh size for their traps. Each sport fisher can fish four traps, either on a string between two floats or as a single trap on a line. Bottom type, depth, bait and soak time are important for recreational prawn fishing.

Sea Cucumber
Sea cucumbers are harvested commercially by divers who remove the animals by hand. Marketable products include frozen muscle strips and dried skins. Skins are semi-dried in BC and the US prior to export to Asia. Final destinations for these products include Hong Kong, Taiwan, Mainland China and Korea, as well as Canada and the US. The commercial sea cucumber fishery occurs in four geographic areas: West Coast Vancouver Island, East Coast Vancouver Island, the Central Coast District and Prince Rupert District. Under the current management regime, the fishery generally lasts three weeks and most often occurs during October, when product quality is higher and weather conditions are still conducive to fish. Individual quotas allow fishermen to select optimum times in which to harvest without fear of competition from other licence holders. While some areas may be more desirable to fish and those quotas harvested early, openings in most areas span the entire three week period.
Sea Urchin Three sea urchin species have been fished in BC waters; red and green sea urchins are fished commercially and purple sea urchins were fished under scientific permit from 1990 to 1992. Fisheries and Oceans Canada is currently reviewing the potential for a purple sea urchin fishery. Commercially-harvested red sea urchins are removed from the ocean floor by divers using short aluminum rakes. Red sea urchins are harvested for their roe (gonad). Packer vessels and trucks deliver the product fresh to processing plants. The gonad is extracted and processed in BC and marketed almost exclusively to Japan, where it is sold as "uni". A smaller market for red sea urchins is developing in other Asian countries and in North America. The yield of roe from a whole animal ranges from five to 15 percent of total body weight. Red sea urchins are of continuing importance to coastal First Nations who harvest them for food, social and ceremonial purposes. The extent of recreational harvest of red sea urchins is undocumented, but considered to be minimal.

Scallop
Two species of scallops are harvested in BC waters: spiny (to 80 millimetres) and pink (to 71 millimetres). Scallops are harvested in inshore waters by divers and by small trawls (drags). The size of the trawl net is limited to a maximum width of two metres. A minimum size limit of 55 millimetres, measured through the longest diameter of the shell perpendicular to the hinge, is in effect for both species of commercially-harvested scallops.

Shrimp
There are seven shrimp species harvested by trawl in BC (and fisheries vary in complexity from single to multi-species) for a variety of markets including machine-peeled, hand-peeled, frozen-at-sea, fresh and live shrimp. The majority of landings are a mix of pink shrimp and sidestripe shrimp. Pink and sidestripe shrimp do not easily enter baited traps, but humpback and dock (coonstripe) shrimp are caught commercially by both trawl and trap. The Pacific Region shrimp trawl fishery takes place all along the British Columbia coastline in a number of protected inshore areas and large offshore grounds on soft bottoms of mud or sand in average depths of 100 to 150 metres.

Squid
Opal squid are largely taken by seine. hook-and-line and side-catcher or frame nets are also used, but to a lesser extent. Squid landed in British Columbia are mainly used as bait in the crab, sablefish and halibut fisheries. There is interest in marketing squid as a food product in BC, but the large California squid fishery produces a low-priced product, making it difficult for B. squid fishers to compete in this market.

What tips for dyeing larger pieces of fabric?

2008-06-22T07:39:00.000-07:00

What tips for dyeing larger pieces of fabric?
Many of our customers have graduated to higher dyeing levels, wishing to color larger pieces of silk fabric. The following information outlines helpful procedures for that type of dyeing with the ‘Colorhue’ instant set silk dyes.
Please be advised if you wish to attempt to dye larger pieces of silk, you should have some previous experience with the ‘Colorhue’ dyes since they have a unique personality that are different than other types of dyes.
The first rule of thumb in dyeing fabrics: As amateur dyers we do not have the professional equipment, dye experience nor the ‘quality control’ needed for dyeing a piece of fabric perfectly even. If you need a piece of evenly dyed fabric I suggest you purchase fabric already commercially dyed.

Fabric Preparation and Dye Equipment
Pre-wash the fabric for possible shrinkage and to remove any fabric finishes. Experiment with the colors you wish to dye on small swatches of the same fabric you will be dyeing. Once you have settled on the color you wish, it is imperative to make enough of a ‘mother batch’ to dye the entire piece. It is impossible to duplicate the exact colors again, so the ‘mother batch’ must be sufficient.

Important fact: As you are dip dyeing larger pieces of fabric, the tub or container used to do the dyeing must have a large bottom radius, in order to move that fabric around in the dye bath. As an example—dyeing a 4-5 yard piece of fabric requires a container the size of a bath tub and enough dye bath to do the entire project.
To make the task of large piece dyeing easier I recommend the following procedure. Before dyeing, cut the fabric into the pieces the approximate sizes that are needed for your particular project. As an example-- if dyeing 3-4 yards of fabric for a blouse, first cut out the pattern pieces in squares or rectangles a few inches larger than the separate front, back and sleeve pieces indicated in the pattern. Or if dyeing pieces for a quilt, cut the larger yardage into to smaller pieces for easier handling (even long strips of fabric are easier to handle than long yardage).
With these smaller pieces it is possible to use a smaller vessel, such as a baby bath tub to do the entire dye project. This will eliminate the job a wrestling with a large piece of wet fabric. From the ‘mother batch’ you take enough of the dye to do several of the cut pieces at a time.

Dyeing the Silk Pieces
It is advisable to pre-soak the silk pieces in clear water until the silk fibers are well saturated. Into the dye container place enough dye from the ‘mother batch’ to cover the fabric pieces to be colored. Immediately immerse all portions of the pre-soaked fabric in the dye bath. Continue to rotate and stir the fabrics in the dye bath until the right color has been achieved. It is always advisable to start dyeing the pieces lighter colors and add more color if needed. (The dye colors can always be added but impossible to lighten once dyed). The longer the silk fibers are left in the dye, the more of that color will be absorbed. This dip dyeing procedure should give a pretty even dyeing result as long as you have continued to rotate and move the pieces in the dye bath.
An example of dyeing the blouse pieces (already referenced): First, dye the two sleeve pieces together until you get the desired color. Second, add more dye to the bath from the ‘mother batch’ and do the blouse back. Finally, add more dye from the ‘mother batch’ and color the blouse fronts. Be sure to match the colors of the separate pieces when the fabrics are wet. There will not be perfect matches to the various pieces, but close enough in color value that it isn’t noticeable. Dry the fabric pieces and iron them to determine their true color. (Wet silk fibers will be twice as dark as the dyed pieces).
A final overdye of all the pieces can be done at one time. The over dye is a very light dye bath and can be a different color than the original color. The over dye helps to compliment and coordinate the coloration of the already dyed fabric. This over dye technique lends a gorgeous patina to the silks that is very satisfying to your eye. It is recommended that you experiment with smaller scrapes, before over dyeing the entire project.

Dye Variation Techniques
Crowding the silk fabrics in the dye bath, various fabric crunch methods and any creasing or pleating of the fabrics will give color patterning to the silks. The dyes will seek the creases and do all the work for you. Some of these advanced dyeing procedures are outlined in Ginny Eckley’s book, Fabric Painting

How To Choose Appropriate Fabrics For Your Custom Furnishings

2008-06-15T09:00:00.000-07:00

How To Choose Appropriate Fabrics For Your Custom FurnishingsIt is very important to choose the appropriate fabrics for window treatments, upholstery, and other home furnishings. If you choose a fabric that is not designed for the use you have in mind, you will probably find that your custom window treatments don't look very good or that your custom upholstered sofa starts developing worn areas within a year. Before you spend money (often a lot of money) on custom labor, make sure you have chosen the correct materials. Otherwise, you may just be throwing money away on custom labor that will only have to be redone (with the correct materials) within a very short time.There is a clear and systematic way to choose the right fabrics for your home. You will consider fiber, weave, and weight when making your decision.Use these qualities to determine the appropriate fabrics to use for your custom furnishings. For instance, if you are having the family sofa upholstered, you will want to choose a heavyweight fabric (such as a heavy boucle') in a durable weave (such as twill) made from a durable fiber that doesn't have to be dry cleaned (such as wool). If you are having softly flowing draperies made, you will want to choose a lightweight fabric that drapes nicely (such as sateen) in a drapeable weave (such as sateen weave) made from a fading-resistant fiber (such as cotton). And so on.Fabric types categorized by the best ways to use them. Everything from antique satin to velvet.The following list of fabric types, categorized by weight, includes all of the fabrics you are likely to find when shopping, with the exception of some the extremely expensive "fantasy fabrics" discussed later in this chapter. A few fabrics will appear in more than one weight category (chintz, for instance).Weight, in the fabric industry, refers to the thickness of the fabric. Very lightweight fabrics are usually extremely delicate and transparent. Lightweight fabrics are still quite thin but not transparent, like fabrics used for shirts and blouses. Mediumweight fabrics are a bit thicker still, like the fabrics used for pants and trousers. Heavyweight fabrics are the thickest and most durable, like the fabrics used on most family room couches (as opposed to the living room sofa that no one who actually lives in the house dares sit on).Fiber contents are not discussed in many of the listings below because they can vary widely on many fabrics. For example, a certain chintz fabric might be 20% cotton/80% polyester, 30% cotton/70% polyester, 50% cotton/50% polyester, 100% cotton, or some other combination of fibers. Ask the fabric dealer for the exact fiber content of the specific fabrics you are interested in purchasing. Often, this information is printed on the price tag or showroom sample.Very lightweight fabrics:These fabrics are all very lightweight laces and sheers. All are trans-parent or semi-sheer. They are all well suited for many types of window treatments, particularly those that drape softly. They are not well suited for window treatments that have a highly structured style, such as hobbled Roman shades. These fabrics can be used for some bed treatments, pillow, and tablecloths, if they are properly lined. They should never be used for any kind of upholstery, lined or not, including small seat cushions.Many of these fabrics contain a combination of nylon, acetate, rayon, glass, and/or polyester. A few contain silk or cotton.Be careful about color when you buy these fabrics. Many of these fabrics, especially those with pastel tints, can appear to change color dramatically between the showroom and your house. I have seen samples of tinted sheers that look pink in the showroom appear to turn peach in a customer's home, for instance.This color shift occurs because showroom and retail store lights are usually fluorescent, and the lighting in most homes is a combination of incandescent lighting and daylight. This color shift occurs with some other fabrics, too, but the effect seems to be the most pronounced with the very lightweight fabrics. So always get a sample to try out in your home before you buy.You should also fold these fabrics several times or bunch them up in your hands when evaluating the color. When these fabrics are made up into your furnishings, they will usually be pleated or ruffled, not stretched out flat. This ruffling of the fabric makes the colors appear darker and more vivid. You should evaluate the colors as they will actually appear when your furnishings are made up, not stretched out flat on a showroom sample.Batiste -- Very delicate semi-sheer plain weave, usually made of cotton or polyester. Often has a printed or embroidered design. Available in white, ecru, and a variety of pale pastels.Bobbinet -- Fine lace with hexagonal meshes. Available in white, ecru, and pale pastel tints.Boucle' marquisette -- Open leno woven fabric with scattered loops. Available in white, ecru, and pale pastels. Pronounced "boo-clay".Casements -- Plain open weaves in a variety of fibers. Relatively thick threads in a variety of colors and color combinations.Dimity -- Thin twisted vertical cords woven with plain horizontal threads to form a vertical striped pattern. Sometimes woven with twisted horizontal cords to form a plaid pattern. Available in white, ecru, and pastels.Dotted Swiss -- Semi-sheer cotton plain weave with a crisp finish (see "organdy" below) embroidered with dots or other patterns. Available in a variety of colors. Dots and embroidery may or may not be in contrasting colors.Fiberglass -- Sometimes referred to as "glass curtains". Glass fibers in a variety of woven patterns: filet, marquisette, etc. Thickness ranges from sheer to nearly opaque. Available in a variety of solid colors and printed patterns.Filet -- Lace with square meshes and knots at each intersecting corner. Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced just like "fillet" of fish.French tergal -- Very delicate sheer silky material. Usually made of silk, rayon, or nylon. It is sometimes also referred to as "ninon". Available in a variety of solid colors and tone-on-tone woven vertical stripes. Some ninon fabrics have embroidered borders.Lace -- Open woven fabric in a wide variety of decorative patterns. Available in a variety of colors.Marquisette -- Open leno woven fabric. Available in white, ecru, and pale pastels.Muslin -- Soft plain cotton weave. Thickness ranges from semi-sheer to nearly opaque. Available in a variety of solid colors and printed patterns.Net -- Lace with regular meshes of any geometric shape. Bobbinet and filet are both examples of net. Available in a variety of colors.Ninon -- Very delicate sheer silky material. Usually made of silk, rayon, or nylon. It is sometimes also referred to as "French tergal". Available in a variety of solid colors and tone-on-tone woven vertical stripes. Some ninon fabrics have embroidered borders. Pronounced "nee-no".Organdy -- Delicate semi-sheer cotton plain weave, treated to make it slightly crisp. Available in a variety of solid colors and some printed or embroidered patterns.Osnaburg -- Open plain weave made from thick coarse nubby cotton yarn. Available in a variety of solid colors and printed patterns.Point d'esprit -- Very fine bobbinet with scattered woven dots. Available in white, ecru, and a variety of pastels. Pronounced "pwaa-de-spree".Silk gauze -- Delicate plain woven silk. Threads usually have slight slubs. Available in a variety of colors.Theatrical gauze -- Open weave with a crisp shiny finish. Usually made of cotton or linen. Available in a variety of solid colors and two-tone color combinations.Voile -- Plain sheer open weave. May have nubby threads or contrasting vertical threads (for a striped effect) woven into the fabric. Available in a variety of solid colors and color combinations. Pronounced "voil" or "vwall" - either is correct.Lightweight fabrics:These are all lightweight fabrics suitable for many window treatments, bed treatments, tablecloths, and decorative pillows. They should not be used for any upholstery, including seat cushions. They also should not be used in areas exposed to excessive wear or staining.These fabrics are made of a variety of natural and man-made fibers in many different combinations. Some of these fabrics are also available in heavier-weight versions, which we will discuss later in the chapter.Antique satin Satin with horizontal slubs. The name has nothing to do with the age of the fabric. This is just a common name for satin that has horizontal slubs. May be a solid color or have a variety of contrasting color horizontal threads woven in. Available in a variety of colors and color combinations.Antique taffeta -- Close plain woven silk with horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. This is just a common name for taffeta that has horizontal slubs - the term has nothing to do with the age of the fabric. Usually made from wild silk, but some newer fabrics are made from cotton or synthetics. Also referred to as "tussah silk", "pongee", or "doupioni silk". Available in a variety of colors.Boucle' -- Close plain woven fabric with many small loops. Usually made from silk, acetate, and/or rayon. Available in a heavyweight version. Pronounced "boo-clay".Broadcloth -- Close plain woven fabric in a variety of fibers and fiber combinations. Typically has a dull finish. Available in a variety of colors.Brocade -- Jacquard woven fabric with intricate raised woven designs, often made with many colors of thread and depicting complex patterns and scenes, and a shiny finish. Usually made from silk and/or rayon. Available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Pronounced "broke-ade".Calico -- Cotton broadcloth with tiny printed patterns. Usually brightly colored, although there are also some pastel calicos. Available in a variety of patterns and color combinations.Challis -- Close plain woven fabric with a soft finish. Usually made of cotton, wool, or synthetics. Available in a variety of printed patterns and a few solid colors. Pronounced "shalley".Chambray -- Close plain woven fabric with a white frosted finish. Usually made of cotton or linen. Available in a wide variety of colors. Pronounced "sham-bray".Chintz -- Close plain woven cotton/polyester blend with a crisp shiny finish. Normally available in solid colors only. Chintzes that have printed patterns are normally mediumweight, although there are a very few, very cheap, very poor-quality lightweight patterned chintzes.Lightweight chintz is visibly thinner and usually has a much higher polyester content than mediumweight chintz. Chintzes that have 20% cotton/80% polyester or 30% cotton/70% polyester fiber contents are normally lightweight. Chintzes that have at least 50% cotton fiber content are normally mediumweight.Lightweight chintz is generally a very poor-quality substitute for mediumweight chintz. It looks cheap, too - hold up samples of light and mediumweight chintz next to each other when you are in a fabric store or showroom and look at the difference. Spend the extra dollar or two per yard and buy a nice mediumweight chintz, especially if you are investing money in custom labor.Cotton sheeting -- Close plain woven cotton with a smooth finish. This is the material used in most standard cotton sheets. Available in a variety of solid colors and printed patterns.Damask -- Jacquard woven fabric with complex woven patterns, usually florals, and a shiny finish. Usually made from linen, silk, and/or rayon. Similar to brocade, except that the patterns are not raised. Available in a mediumweight version. Many damasks are monochromatic, although some do use contrasting colored threads. Available in a wide variety of colors and patterns.Doupioni silk -- Close plain woven silk with horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. Usually made from wild silk, but some newer fabrics are made from cotton or synthetics. Also referred to as "tussah silk", "antique taffeta", or "pongee". Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced "doop-ee-o-ni".Drill -- Twill woven cotton. Available in a limited variety of colors.Faille -- Rib woven fabric with flattened horizontal ribs. Usually made from silk, rayon, or cotton. Available in a wide variety of colors. Pronounced "file".Gingham -- Close plain woven cotton and/or synthetics in three specific woven patterns - checks, stripes, or plaids. Available in a variety of bright colors and pastels against a white or ecru background.Homespun -- Close plain woven fabric made up of threads in varying thicknesses. Usually made of linen, wool, cotton, or rayon. Has a crude homemade appearance. Available in a variety of colors.India print -- Close plain woven cotton fabric printed with ethnic or floral patterns. Dyes are usually primitive vegetable dyes and are prone to fading, although the fabrics are still very attractive in their slightly faded state. Available in a variety of colors.Indian Head -- Brand name for a particular close plain woven cotton fabric that has been pre-shrunk and treated to be colorfast (non-fading). Available in a variety of colors.Jaspe' -- Plain woven fabric made of thick irregular yarns. Usually made with vertical yarns of contrasting colors to create woven stripes. Available in a variety of color combinations, most monochromatic. Pronounced "zhaspay", where the "zh" is pronounced like the "zs" in "Zsa Zsa".Linen -- Close plain woven linen fibers. Available in a variety of colors and printed patterns.Moire' -- Rib woven fabric with a permanent wavy watermarked pattern and a crisp shiny finish. Usually made of cotton, acetate, silk, and/or rayon. Lightweight moire' tends to have mostly synthetic fibers and silk. Mediumweight moire' generally has a higher cotton content. Available in a wide variety of colors. Pronounced "moray".Oxford cloth -- Close plain or twill woven cotton fabric. You've probably seen it in oxford shirts. Available in a variety of pastel colors.Pique' -- Close plain woven fabric with spaced horizontal ribs. Usually made of cotton, rayon, and/or silk. Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced "pikay".Pongee -- Close plain woven silk with horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. Usually made from wild silk, but some newer fabrics are made from cotton or synthetics. Also referred to as "tussah silk", "antique taffeta", or "doupioni silk". Available in a variety of colors.Poplin -- Close plain woven cotton or synthetic fabric with small rounded horizontal ribs. Available in a variety of colors.Sateen -- Sateen woven cotton/polyester blend with a soft finish. Medium-weight sateen is normally 100% cotton. Approximately one-quarter of the fabrics you will find from fabric dealers are light or mediumweight sateen. Available in a wide variety of colors and printed patterns.Satin -- Satin woven silk, rayon, and/or acetate with a slippery, shiny finish. Available in a wide variety of colors.Shantung -- Close plain woven silk with elongated horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. Available in a wide variety of colors.Taffeta -- Close plain woven silk with very few small horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. Available in a wide variety of colors.Tussah silk -- Close plain woven silk with horizontal slubs and a smooth crisp finish. Usually made from wild silk, but some newer fabrics are made from cotton or synthetics. Also referred to as "pongee", "antique taffeta", or "doupioni silk". Available in a variety of colors.Waffle pique' -- Close plain woven fabric with spaced horizontal and vertical ribs forming a box pattern like on a waffle. Usually made of cotton, rayon, and/or silk. Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced "pikay".Mediumweight fabrics:These fabrics are thicker and more durable than the lightweight fabrics and are usually made with more durable fibers: cotton, linen, and wool. Many do contain less durable synthetic fibers, but in smaller quantities. Some are also available in lightweight versions.These fabrics are suitable for crisp structured window treatments, decorative pillows, some bed treatments, seat cushions, slipcovers, and light upholstery. They are not suitable for window treatments that should drape softly or upholstery that will receive heavy wear.Bark cloth -- Close plain woven fabric with a rough texture created by using yarns of irregular thickness. Available in a variety of colors and printed patterns.Brocade -- Jacquard woven fabric with intricate raised woven designs, often made with many colors of thread and depicting complex patterns and scenes, and a shiny finish. Usually made from cotton. Available in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Pronounced "broke-ade".Brocatelle -- Specific type of brocade that has large patterns in high relief. The high relief gives the decorative pattern a puffy appearance, as opposed to most other brocades on which the pattern is not so highly raised. It is normally used on large furnishings, such as sofas and wing chairs. Pronounced "brock-ah-tell".Burlap -- Open plain woven fabric made from jute or hemp fibers. Also called "hopsacking". It is available in a few colors.Canvas -- Close plain woven cotton fabric with relatively large threads. Also referred to as "duck" and "sailcloth". Available in a variety of colors, stripes, and a few printed designs.Chintz -- Close plain woven cotton/polyester blend with a crisp shiny finish. Usually has at least 50% cotton. The best chintz is 100% cotton. Available in a wide variety of solid colors and printed patterns. About half of the fabrics you will find from fabric dealers are mediumweight chintzes.Crash -- Close plain woven fabric with a rough texture created by using threads of irregular thicknesses. Usually made from linen, rayon, cotton, and/or jute. Available in a variety of colors and printed patterns.Cretonne -- Close plain woven cotton fabric very similar to chintz but lacking the crisp shiny finish. Available in a variety of printed patterns.Crewel -- Close plain woven cotton or linen fabric with large embroidered patterns. Available in a wide variety of embroidered designs and a limited variety of base fabric colors. Nearly all crewel fabric consists of embroidery on an ecru base fabric.Damask -- Jacquard woven fabric with complex woven patterns, usually florals, and a shiny finish. Usually made from cotton. Similar to brocade, except that the patterns are not raised. Available in lightweight versions. Most damasks are monochromatic, although some do use contrasting colored threads. Available in a wide variety of colors and patterns.Denim -- Twill woven cotton. Available in a narrow variety of colors. Yes, this is exactly the same fabric used for blue jeans. Denim often costs less in fabric stores that specialize in clothing fabrics than it does in stores that specialize in home decorative fabrics.Duck -- Close plain woven cotton fabric with relatively large threads. Also referred to as "canvas" and "sailcloth". Available in a variety of colors, stripes, and a few printed designs.Gingham -- Close plain woven cotton in three specific woven patterns - checks, stripes, or plaids. Available in a variety of bright colors and pastels against a white or ecru background.Hopsacking -- Open plain woven fabric made from jute or hemp fibers. Also called "burlap". Available in a few colors. Moire' -- Rib woven fabric with a permanent wavy watermarked pattern and a crisp shiny finish. Usually made of cotton and or/acetate. Available in a wide variety of colors. Pronounced "moray".Pique' -- Close plain woven fabric with spaced horizontal ribs. Usually made of cotton. Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced "pikay".Repp -- Rib woven fabric with large horizontal ribs. Usually made of cotton, but may also contain synthetics. Available in a variety of colors.Sailcloth -- Close plain woven cotton fabric with relatively large threads. Also referred to as "duck" and "canvas". Available in a variety of colors, stripes, and a few printed designs.Sateen -- Sateen woven cotton with a soft finish. Approximately one-quarter of the fabrics you will find from fabric dealers are light or mediumweight sateen. Available in a wide variety of colors and printed patterns.Seersucker -- Close plain woven cotton with woven puckered stripes. The puckered effect is formed by varying the tension on the threads during the weaving process. Available in a variety of stripe colors against a white or ecru background.Sunbrella -- Specific brand of sailcloth that has been treated in a way that makes it highly resistant to sun-fading and mildew. Usually used for patio cushions and awnings. Available in a few colors, stripes, and a limited variety of printed patterns.Terrycloth -- Pile woven cotton with loops instead of cut pile. Often used for patio cushions. Available in a few colors.Textilene -- Specific brand of open plain woven fabric made from plastic-coated threads. Used for patio furniture cushions because it dries quickly and does not fade. Available in a variety of solid colors and woven striped designs.Ticking -- Twill woven cotton or linen with narrow woven stripes. Available in a variety of colors against a white or ecru background.Waffle pique' -- Close plain woven fabric with spaced horizontal and vertical ribs forming a box pattern like a waffle. Usually made of cotton. Available in a variety of colors. Pronounced "pikay".Heavyweight fabrics:These fabrics are primarily used for upholstery, seat cushions, and decorative pillows. They are generally not used for window treatments, although rarely some of these fabrics are used for flat structured window treatments such as pelmets and cornice boards.Boucle' -- Close plain or twill woven fabric with many small loops. Usually made from wool and/or synthetics. Available in a lightweight version. Pronounced "boo-clay".Corduroy -- Pile woven cotton and/or synthetics with raised vertical stripes of pile (called "wales"). Corduroy is also used for clothing, although clothing corduroy usually has narrower stripes and is thinner than upholstery corduroy. Available in a variety of colors.Cotton moire' -- Close Jacquard woven cotton fabric with a raised woven pattern that imitates the wavy watermarked pattern of moire'. It is not a true moire'. Available in a wide variety of colors. Pronounced "moray".Frieze -- Pile woven nylon and/or wool with the pile cut to form stripes or patterns. Available in a variety of colors and woven patterns. Pronounced "freeze".Matelasse' -- Jacquard woven fabric made of two layers of cotton and/or rayon fabric quilted together. Usually has a raised floral or geometric pattern. Available in a variety of colors and woven patterns. Pronounced "mad-eh-luh-say".Needlepoint -- Jacquard woven fabric made of wool, cotton, rayon, and/or acetate woven in discrete stitches on an open grid made of hemp or jute. The stitches vary in color to form patterns, usually florals. The Jacquard weaving method allows needlepoint to be mechanically mass-produced - formerly, all needlepoint was hand-stitched.Stitches are of equal length and range in size from very tiny (called "petit-point", pronounced "petty-point") to quite large (called "gros-point", pronounced "grow-point"). Petit-point is much more attractive, and much more expensive, than gros-point. Available in a limited variety of colors and patterns.Plush -- Pile woven cotton fabric with long cut pile made from cotton, silk, and/or rayon. Very much like velvet but with longer pile. Pile may be even or have sculptured patterns cut into it. Available in a wide variety of colors.Repp -- Rib woven fabric with large horizontal ribs. Usually made of wool, but may also contain synthetics. Available in a variety of colors.Tapestry -- Jacquard woven cotton, wool, linen, and/or silk with woven patterns or scenes.Velvet -- Pile woven cotton fabric with short cut pile made from cotton, silk, and/or rayon. Very much like plush but with shorter pile. Pile may be even or "crushed" (permanently compressed in places to form a random pattern). A few velvets have woven multicolored patterns or stripes, although this is rare today. Available in a wide variety of colors.

The 10 Essential Elements of a Well-Balanced Home Theater

2008-06-15T08:58:00.000-07:00

Getting Started: The Room, The Video Display Device, Audio ReproductionHome theater is an exciting entertainment option that provides the consumer with an immersive viewing and listening experience. Your home theater can be something as simple as a 27-inch TV and a home theater-in-a-box system, or a sophisticated custom-built system with video projector and in-wall speakers. However, there is a lot to consider in-between. Here are the items you need for a well-balanced Home Theater:1. The Room:The first place to start is the room you intend to place your home theater in. The size of the room will determine the size and type of video display device (TV or projector) that would be best to use. However, whether your room is large or small, additional questions to consider include:How much ambient light is present?Is the room carpeted or not carpeted?What type of wall construction do you have?Will you be placing your components in free space, or will you be housing your components in a cabinet or closet and installing your speakers in the wall or ceiling?Where will you be sitting in relation to the screen image?Before embarking on buying your actual home theater components, especially for a medium-to-high end system, it might be a good idea to consult with a home theater installer to come onsite and assess your room and address the above questions.The installer can make useful suggestions on components or installation concepts that will work best in your room environment, keeping in mind your own specific budgetary considerations. 2. The Video Display Device:This is the first actual component to consider. After-all, the idea of home theater is to bring the movie theater experience home. The most important element of this experience is the visual experience of viewing a large image on a screen. This is where you have a choice of:A large screen traditional CRT-based television.A Rear-projection TelevisionA Flat Panel LCD or Plasma Television.A Video Projector/Screen Combination.The actual size of the room will help determine the size of screen that can be accommodated. From there, you need to decide what type of video display device would be most appropriate.In addition, at this point in time, with increase in the amount of available HDTV programming sources, as well as HD source components, consider HD-compatible Televisions or Video projectors instead of a traditional analog television. HD-compatible Televisions and video projectors will deliver the most from new HD sources, but will also work with your older analog components, such as a VCR.3. Audio Reproduction - Home Theater Receiver or Preamp/Amp Combination:The next essential element of movie theater experience is sound. The way this is implemented in the home theater environment is with either an AV receiver or Preamplifier/Amplifier combination.An AV Receiver usually combines the functions of three components:A. A radio tuner for AM/FM and, in some cases, HD (High Definition Radio) or XM-Satellite Radio.B. A Preamplifier that switches and controls which audio and video source is selected (such as a DVD player, VCR, CD player, etc...) and processes the incoming stereo or surround sound signals and distributes them to the correct amplifier channels and the subwoofer output. The preamp in an AV receiver can also route video signals coming from source components (such as a DVD player) and direct the video signal to the television.C. A built-in Multi-channel amplifier (5.1, 6.1, or 7.1 channels) that sends the surround sound signals and power to the speaker system.AV Receiver or Separate ComponentsThe AV receiver is the heart of a home theater system and provides most, if not all, the inputs and outputs that you connect everything, including your television, into. An AV Receiver provides an easy and cost-effective way of centralizing your your home theater system.However, in many higher-end installations, the functions of an AV Receiver are often provided by separate components: Preamp/Processor, Tuner, and either a single multi-channel amplifier or even separate amplifiers for each channel. Such a setup provides more flexibility in switching out and/or upgrading the separate aspects of the system as well as isolating any interference that is caused by having all these functions combined in a signal chassis and sharing the same power supply. For the average consumer, however, a good AV Receiver will function just fine. 4. Loudspeakers: The next element in assembling your home theater system are the loudspeakers. Just as the size and type of room dictates the type of video display device you need, the same factors also affect the speakers you need for your home theater. Two key points to remember:A. Before you buy - listen to several types of speaker setups.B. Consider buying the same brand and related model speakers for your home theater. This will insure that you will have a better acoustical match between both the speakers and the room. Check out more on Loudspeakers: Loudspeaker Basics and Products.5. A Subwoofer :The advent of home theater has introduced the Subwoofer to many consumers.A subwoofer is a specialized speaker that only reproduces the extreme low frequencies present in movies or music. There are several types of subwoofers, and, once again, the size and type of room, and issues such as whether the room is carpeted or not will help you determine which subwoofer is right for you. Once again, you need to perform listening tests. 6. Source Components:At a minimum, you need some type of DVD player for your home theater. Two things to consider in a DVD player: Progressive Scan and Upscaling capability. This will insure you get the best possible image from your DVDs, especially if you are viewing them on an HDTV.Since all DVD players can play CDs, you many not need a CD player. However, having a separate CD-only player in a home theater system is quite common, especially if it is a high-end unit providing better CD audio performance.Also, if you decide to get a Blu-ray Disc player to access true high definition source content, instead, or in addition to, a DVD player, you can also use it to play standard DVDs and, in most cases, audio CDs as well. For more on the Blu-ray Disc (or HD-DVD) player option, check out my articles Before You Buy a Blu-ray Disc or HD-DVD Player, and Blu-ray and HD-DVD FAQs.In addition, you may also want to include a DVD recorder or DVD recorder/VCR combination in lieu of your old VCR. However, you can still use your old VCR (especially if it is a HiFi Stereo unit) with your home theater.Also, you need to decide how you will receive your primary television programming: Antenna, Cable, or Satellite.7. Surge Protector:Surge protectors are the unsung heroes of home theater. Although they are not foolproof, providing your system with some sort of surge protection is a good idea. You never know when you might have a sudden power outage, or even a brown out that may affect your system.8. Connection Cables and Speaker Wire:You can't have a home theater unless everything is connected; whether you buy basic connection cables and speaker wire or the really high-end stuff. The main things to consider is to use the right type, right length, and to connect everything correctly. Some connections are color coded - make sure the colors on the cable ends match the connections on your components - this makes life a lot easier.In terms of speaker cable, the gauge of the cable can be a factor, depending on the distance the speakers are from the amplifier or AV receiver. I use 16 or 14 gauge speaker wire myself. 18 gauge is very thin and should not be used for longer distances.9. Universal Remote Control:One of the most confusing parts of a home theater is not all components and the connections, but actually managing an controlling it. Each component comes with its own remote, leading to a collection that can number half-a-dozen or more. One solution is to opt for a sophisticated, but easy to use, universal remote that can control most of the functions of each of your components. After the initial hurdle of programming the remote for your system, such a device will enable everyone in the family to use the home theater system without frustration.10. Furniture:You have a fancy home theater system, now you need some comfortable furniture that will make you want to spend your time with your home theater. Your furniture can be of the traditional sofa and chair variety, or you can opt for specialized home theater furniture that include features such as built-in cup holders and extra-overstuffed padding.Final TakeThere you have it, the basic elements of a well-balanced home theater. There is no home theater that is exactly like another, everyone has different rooms, budgets, brand preferences, and decorative tastes when it comes to home theater. The key thing is to keep the basic elements of a well-balanced home theater in mind, while assembling it according to your own needs and tastes.

Furniture for Interiors

2008-06-15T08:57:00.000-07:00

Accessories and Accents
Furniture
Decorating
Interior Lighting
Color in Decorating
Luxury Home Products
Decorative Moldings
Using Flowers in Decorating
Fabrics In Decorating
Walls and Ceilings
Fireplaces
Window Treatments
Flooring

Decorating Styles for Home Interiors

2008-06-15T08:54:00.002-07:00

African Style
Mexican Decor
Asian Decor
Period Style Guides
British India
Romantic Decor
Contemporary Style
Room Themes
Cottage Style
Rustic Decor
English Country
Southwest Style
French Country
Swedish Style
Guy Decor
Traditional Style
Italian Style
Victorian Style
Mediterranean
Vintage Retro

Keep Your Dog Healthy

2008-06-15T08:54:00.001-07:00

You love your dog, and your want her to be healthy and happy. Help keep your dog on the path to wellness with these dog health guidelines.Expert Veterinary CareHigh-quality veterinary care sets the foundation for your dog’s overall health. Find a veterinarian you can trust and visit regularly. Ideally, routine wellness examinations should be performed by your vet twice a year. Puppies and senior dogs should be seen even more frequently. If your dog has special needs, a chronic health condition or other illness, comply with your vet’s recommendations. Because your dog ages at a faster rate than you, many subtle changes can develop over a six to twelve month period. Routine visits allow your vet to closely monitor changes before your dog’s health gets out of control. Learn how to effectively communicate with your vet and you can expect the same in return. If you can develop a good connection with your vet, it can lead to long-term benefit for you and your dog.Optimum NutritionProper nutrition is a fundamental for a healthy dog. Diet directly affects your dog’s skin and coat, weight, energy level, and gastrointestinal function. If a problem occurs in one of these areas, it may be linked to improper diet. Choose a high-quality dog food made by a reputable company, or learn about homemade diets. Once you find the right food for your dog, use that food consistently. Watch your dog’s response to the diet over 4-8 weeks. How does her coat look? It should be shiny and free of flakes, but not greasy. Have you noticed a change in her energy level? A decrease in energy could indicate a problem. Has she lost or gained weight? Obesity in dogs is a very common problem which can often be reversed with proper diet and exercise. Excess weight loss may occur if your dog does not find the food palatable. If her response to the diet is poor, it may be time to look into other foods. A sudden change in dog foods can cause gastrointestinal upset, so switch over gradually unless otherwise directed by your vet.Routine ExerciseMany dog owners underestimate their dogs’ exercise needs. Destructive behavior may lead to a diagnosis of separation anxiety or other behavioral problems. While these conditions truly exist, in many cases the behavior is actually the result of an energy surplus. If you feed your dog a healthy diet, it should give her plenty of energy. However, if your dog can’t release that energy with exercise, it may be released on your furniture, carpet, doorways, or even your prized collection of rare books. Before you blame your dog for the damage, ask yourself if she’s getting enough exercise. In general, dogs need at least 1-2 hours of exercise per day, but this varies by breed, size and age. Over time, determine the ideal exercise regimen for your dog and establish a routine. You might even notice an improvement in your own health in the meantime.Regular GroomingGrooming is not just for “fancy” dogs. All dogs need some degree of basic physical upkeep. In general, your dog’s grooming needs will be based on her breed. However, your dog may have special needs due to health conditions such as allergies. The average short-haired dog will benefit from a monthly nail trim, bath and brushing. Long-haired dogs should be brushed out daily. Dogs with continuously growing hair may need a haircut every week or two. Once you determine your dog’s grooming needs, decide if you will be doing it yourself, or if you need to hire a professional. Either way, schedule grooming sessions for your dog on a regular basis.Watch for Warning SignsBecause our dogs cannot speak in words, we must rely on the signs they give us. Your dog may exhibit a variety of signs that indicate a health problem. Just like you, your dog can develop a mild illness that resolves on its own, so not all signs are cause for alarm. However, many dogs will instinctively try to conceal signs of serious illness. Learn what to watch for and how to act appropriately before the illness becomes out of control. If your dog is displaying signs of illness, contact your vet right away.

Using Flowers in Decorating

2008-06-15T08:53:00.001-07:00

Arranging Flowers
Flowers in Decor
Care of Flowers
Ordering Flowers
Centerpiece Ideas
Party Flowers
Dried Flowers

Types of Furniture

2008-06-15T08:51:00.000-07:00

Beds
Chairs
Tables
Bureaus & Armoires
Desks
Bookcases & shelves
Cabinets & other case pieces
Custom Furniture & Built-ins

Use of Copper for the Kitchen or Bath

2008-06-15T08:50:00.000-07:00

When it comes time to replace a kitchen or bath sink, bathtub, or counter top, you might focus on the obvious stainless steel or porcelain. But there is another choice that can add character and warmth to your space--copper. For a designer look in your kitchen or bath, you might consider copper for sinks, tubs, or counter tops. The warm tones of copper would be appropriate for a French Country or Victorian style kitchen, a butler’s pantry sink, or counter tops for a kitchen or bar area.A copper sink or bathtub is a natural work of art for your home and you should love the look. There are many pre-made designs available in home design stores or online or you can design a custom copper sink.Whatever you choose, it will be helpful to keep the following information in mind.Choose Only Solid CopperWhile some companies make their products of copper and alloys to offer a less expensive product, they can sometimes rust and the finish is often mottled or irregular. Either new or recycled copper should be at least 99% pure for long life.Copper is a Healthy ChoiceWhile bacteria lives for days on even the cleanest stainless steel or porcelain, bacteria survives only hours on copper. There's no need to use disinfectants and antibacterial products for cleaning.Confirm TIG Welding on SeamsFor the best looking and strongest weld on seams, they should be TIG welded.Know the FinishSome copper counter tops, sinks, and tubs are raw copper. Others are fired with a weathered or warm aged patina finish. Some copper fixtures are embellished with paint or hammered artwork. And others combine an alloy of copper and silver or gold to offer more looks for copper. If you know the type of finish you've chosen, you'll be better prepared to care for it properly. If you don't want the finish to change over time, you should ask for a fixture that has a permanent clear lacquer finish which will stand up to acid or base stains.It Couldn't Be Much EasierUnlike old copper pots and pans, caring for new copper sinks and countertops couldn't be easier. In fact, copper is one of the easiest surfaces to care for, since their patina acquired over time adds to the beauty of the piece.The Finish Can Age Over TimeKnow that the look of your copper sink, bathtub, or counter top will change over time as the copper ages. This "living" metal will acquire different tones and warmth. When you're shopping, ask to see fixtures of different ages and finishes so that you won't be disappointed when your piece changes.Wax ItTo help preserve the look of the new copper, apply a light coat of high-quality plumber wax to the copper sink or counter. This will help water to "bead up" on the surface and will prevent spotting.Reapply when water stops "beading."What Not to DoBecause most sinks and bathtubs are finished with a patina finish, do not try to polish them! You will ruin the natural patina and the finish cannot be recovered. Never use abrasive cleaners on a copper surface.How to Care for Copper Sinks, Bathtubs, and CountersCaring for a copper element in your home is very easy. On a daily basis, rinse with water and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Occasionally, wash the surface with soapy water, rinse, and dry. If you live in a hard water area, rinse after each use to prevent the build-up of soap residue and minerals in the water. Then wipe dry.With little work and a modest investment, you can have the unusual and beautiful look of warm copper in almost any room in your home. Copper is particularly appropriate in the kitchen or bath, but is also a wonderful addition to a family room or pool room with a copper sink at a bar area.

Things for Window Treatment

2008-06-15T08:48:00.000-07:00

Following things are important for window Treatement

curtains
draperies
valances
swags
cornice boards
pelmets
sunbursts
shades
tiebacks

Resort

2008-06-12T07:26:00.000-07:00

A resort is a place used for relaxation or recreation, attracting visitors for holidays or vacations. Resorts are places, towns or sometimes commercial establishment operated by a single company. Such a self-contained resort attempts to provide for most of a vacationer's wants while remaining on the premises, such as food, drink, lodging, sports, entertainment, and shopping. The term "resort" sometimes is misused to identify a hotel that does not provide the other amenities required of a full resort. However, a hotel is frequently a central feature of a resort, such as the Grand Hotel at Mackinac Island, Michigan. A resort is not merely a commercial establishment operated by a single company, although in the late twentieth century this sort of facility became more common.

Towns that contain resorts—or where tourism or vacationing is a major part of the local activity—are often called resort towns. Towns such as Sochi in Russia, Sharm el Sheikh in Egypt, Newport, Rhode Island or St. Moritz, Switzerland, or larger regions, like the Adirondack Mountains or the Italian Riviera are well known resorts. The Walt Disney World Resort is a prominent example of a modern, self-contained commercial resort. Resorts exist throughout the world, increasingly attracting visitors from around the globe. Thailand, for instance, has become a popular destination. Resorts are especially prevalent in Central America and the Caribbean. Closely related to resorts are convention and large meeting sites. Generally these occur in cities where special meeting halls, together with ample accommodations as well as varied dining and entertainment are provided.

Types of resort
Kayaking provided by a lakeside resort in Jasper, Alberta[edit] Resort at a destinationA commercial establishment at a resort destination such as a recreational area, a scenic or historic site, a theme park, a gaming facility or other tourist attraction competes with other businesses at that destination.. Examples would be hotels in and around Walt Disney World, resorts in St. Martin in the Caribbean, and establishments at Aspen, Colorado in the USA.

[edit] Destination resortA destination resort is a resort that contains, in and of itself, the necessary guest attraction capabilities—that is to say that a destination resort does not need to be near a destination (town, historic site, theme park, or other) to attract its public. Consequently, another characteristic of a destination resort is that is offers food, drink, lodging, sports, entertainment, and shopping within the facility so that guests have no need to leave the facility throughout their stay. Commonly these facilities are of higher quality than would be expected if one were to stay at a hotel or eat in a town's restaurants. Some examples are Atlantis in the Bahamas, Costa do Sauípe in the Northeastern Brazil, Laguna Phuket in Thailand and Sun City near Johannesburg in South Africa.

[edit] All-inclusive resort The "Paradise" resort in CatskillsAn all-inclusive resort is a resort that, besides providing all of the common amenities of a resort, charges a fixed price that includes most or all items.[1] At a minimum, most inclusive resorts include lodging, unlimited food, drink, sports activities, and entertainment for the fixed price. In recent years, the number of resorts offering "all-inclusive" amenities has decreased dramatically; in 1961, over half offered such plans and in 2007, less than ten percent do so.[2]

[edit] Historical resortsA famous resort of the ancient world was Baiae, Italy, popular over 2,000 years ago. Capri, an island near Naples, Italy, has attracted visitors since Roman times.
Another famous historical resort was Monte Ne, Arkansas, which was active in the early 20th century. At its peak more than 10,000 people a year visited its hotels. It was disenfranchised in the 1930s and flooded in the 1960s and all that remains are ruins.

Dairy Farming

2008-06-12T07:25:00.000-07:00

Dairy farming is a class of agricultural, or an animal husbandry enterprise, for long-term production of milk, which may be either processed on-site or transported to a dairy factory for processing and eventual retail sale. Most dairy farms sell the male calves born by their cows, usually for veal production, or breeding depending on quality of the Bull calf, rather than raising non-milk-producing stock. Many dairy farms also grow their own feed, typically including corn, alfalfa, and hay. This is fed directly to the cows, or is stored as silage for use during the winter season. Additional dietary supplements are added to the feed to increase quality milk production.
About dairy farmingDairy farming has been part of agriculture for thousands of years, but historically, it was usually done on a small scale on mixed farms. Specialist scale dairy farming is only viable where either a large amount of milk is required for production of more durable dairy products such as cheese, or there is a substantial market of people with cash to buy milk, but no cows of their own.
Centralized dairy farming as we understand it primarily developed around villages and cities, where residents were unable to have cows of their own due to a lack of grazing land. Near the town, farmers could make some extra money on the side by having additional animals and selling the milk in town. The dairy farmers would fill barrels with milk in the morning and bring it to market on a wagon.[citation needed]
Before mechanization most cows were still milked by hand. At milking time they brought the vacuum pump, and the automatic milking machine.
The first milking machines were an extension of the traditional milk pail. The early milker device fit on top of a regular milk pail and sat on the floor under the cow. Following each cow being milked, the bucket would be dumped into a holding tank.
This developed into the Surge hanging milker. Prior to milking a cow, a large wide leather strap called a surcingle was put around the cow, across the cow's lower back. The milker device and collection tank hung underneath the cow from the strap. This innovation allowed the cow to move around naturally during the milking process rather than having to stand perfectly still over a bucket on the floor.
Surge later developed a vacuum milk-return system known as the Step-Saver, to save the farmer the trouble of carrying the heavy steel buckets of milk all the way back to the storage tank in the milkhouse. The system used a very long vacuum hose coiled around a receiver cart, and connected to a vacuum-breaker device in the milkhouse. Following milking each cow, the hanging milk bucket would be dumped into the receiver cart, which filtered debris from the milk and allowed it to be slowly sucked through the long hose to the milkhouse. As the farmer milked the cows in series, the cart would be rolled further down the center aisle, the long milk hose unwrapped from the cart, and hung on hooks along the ceiling of the aisle.
The next innovation in automatic milking was the milk pipeline. This uses a permanent milk-return pipe and a second vacuum pipe that encircles the barn or milking parlor above the rows of cows, with quick-seal entry ports above each cow. By eliminating the need for the milk container, the milking device shrank in size and weight to the point where it could hang under the cow, held up only by the sucking force of the milker nipples on the cow's udder. The milk is pulled up into the milk-return pipe by the vacuum system, and then flows by gravity to the milkhouse vacuum-breaker that puts the milk in the storage tank. The pipeline system greatly reduced the physical labor of milking since the farmer no longer needed to carry around huge heavy buckets of milk from each cow.
Innovation in milking focussed on mechanising the milking parlour to maximise throughput of cows per operator Thiel, C; Dodd [1983]. Machine Milking (in Eng). UK: NIRD. ISBN 0 7084 0116 3. [citation needed], which streamlined the milking process to permit cows to be milked as if on an assembly line, and to reduce physical stresses on the farmer by putting the cows on a platform slightly above the person milking the cows to eliminate having to constantly bend over. Many older and smaller farms still have tie-stall or stanchion barns, but worldwide a majority of commercial farms have parlours. Newer innovations include automatic take-off systems, which remove the milker from the cow when the milk flow reaches a preset level, computer to measure the production of each animal while it is milking, and computer chips that identify cows individually when they walk into a parlour so their feed intake and milk output can be monitored. These last three are becoming more common because of their value on large farms where it is hard to monitor each cow individually.
In the 1980s and 1990s robotic milking systems were developed and introduced (principally in the EU) [2000] in Hoegeveen: Robotic Milking, proceedings of the international symposium, Lelystad, 17-19 th August 2000, Meijering (in Eng), Wageningen Pers. ISBN 9074134874. . Thousands of these systems are now in routine operation. In these systems the cow has a high degree of autonomy to choose her time of milking within pre-defined windows. These systems are generally limited to intensively managed systems although research continues to match them to the requirements of grazing cattle and to develop sensors to detect animal health and fertility automatically (www.ecow.co.uk).
[edit] History of milk preservation methodsKeeping milk cool helps preserve it. When windmills and well pumps were invented, one of its first uses on the farm besides providing water for animals was for cooling milk, to extend the storage life before being transported to the town market. The naturally cold underground water would be continuously pumped into a tub or other containers of milk set in the tub to cool after milking. This method of milk cooling was extremely popular before the arrival of electricity and refrigeration.
When refrigeration first arrived, the equipment was fairly small and did not have the ability to rapidly cool the large volume of milk that was entering the storage tank in a short period of time. This problem was resolved through the development of the ice bank. This is a double-walled tank design where water and cooling coils fill the space underneath and around the milk tank above.
All day long, the small compressor and cooling system slowly draws heat out of the water, while a second pump continuously circulates the water around the coils. Ice eventually builds up around the coils, until it reaches a thickness of about three inches surrounding each pipe, and the cooling system shuts off. When the milking operation starts only the milk agitator and the water circulation pump blowing water across the ice and the steel walls of the tank are needed to rapidly reduce the incoming milk to a temperature below 40 degrees. But because the ice is not permitted to build up until it touches the milk storage tank, the milk does not get cold enough to also freeze.
This cooling method worked well for smaller dairies up to about 40 cows, but for large numbers of animals a better system was needed to rapidly cool the incoming warm milk. This is usually done using a device known as a plate chiller, which is a heat exchanger. Alternating stainless steel plates cause the milk to flow in a thin sheet across the plates, while cold water is circulated in a thin sheet on the other side of the plates. Flattening out the milk flow permits quick. even cooling for all the milk, compared to a round tube where the center core does not cool as rapidly as the walls.
The plate chiller has high cooling demands, and for many farms this involves a step back into the past, back to the days of windmills and milk-can cooling, except now a large volume of naturally cold underground water is continuously streamed through the plate chiller to quickly bring down the milk down to the temperature of the underground water at about 50 degrees F. The water is usually not just dumped back into the ground again, but reused for washing and other purposes.
But the milk still is not as cold as it needs to be, so the milk storage tank is still used to do further cooling, to bring the milk down to 40 degrees. But with the development of high-power 3-phase electrical service, ice-bank chillers are typically no longer used. Instead the milk storage tank is a direct-cooling system with cooling coils embedded in the walls of the tank, that quickly pull the heat out and dump it across a large array of possibly several different high-horsepower compressors and condensing units. Once the milk has achieved 40 degrees F after milking is finished, only one or two cooling units need to run occasionally to maintain the correct temperature.
[edit] The milking operation
[edit] Original hand milking processesUntil the late 1800s, the milking of the cow was done by hand. In the United States, several large dairy operations existed in some northeastern states and in the west, that involved as many as several hundred cows, but an individual milker could not be expected to milk more than a dozen cows a day. Smaller operations predominated.
Milking took place indoors in a barn with the cattle tied by the neck with ropes or held in place by stanchions. Feeding could occur simultaneously with milking in the barn, although most dairy cattle were pastured during the day between milkings. Such examples of this method of dairy farming are difficult to locate, but some are preserved as a historic site for a glimpse into the days gone by. One such instance that is open for public tours is at Point Reyes National Seashore.
With the availability of electric power and suction milking machines, the production levels that were possible in stanchion barns increased but the scale of the operations continued to be limited by the labor intensive nature of the milking process. Attaching and removing milking machines involved repeated heavy lifting of the machinery and its contents several times per cow and the pouring of the milk into milk cans. As a result, it was rare to find single-farmer operations of more than 50 head of cattle.
[edit] Modern milking parlor operationsFarmers use any number of styles of milking parlors to milk dairy cattle. Many older farms have stanchion or tie-stall facilities, where the milkers are brought to the cows and the milker bends down to apply the milking machine to the cow. More modern farms use recessed parlors, where the milker stands in a recess such that his arms are at the level of the cow's udder. Recessed parlors can be herringbone, where the cows stand in two angled rows either side of the recess and the milker accesses the udder from the side, parallel, where the cows stand side-by-side and the milker accesses the udder from the rear or, more recently, rotary (or carousel), where the cows are on a raised circular platform, facing the center of the circle, and the platform rotates while the milker stands in one place and accesses the udder from the rear. There are many other styles of milking parlors which are less common.
In herringbone and parallel parlors, the milker generally milks one row at a time. The milker will move a row of cows from the holding yard into the milking parlor, and milk each cow in that row. Once all or most of the milking machines have been removed from the milked row, the milker releases the cows to their feed. A new group of cows is then loaded into the now vacant side and the process repeats until all cows are milked. Depending on the size of the milking parlor, which normally is the bottleneck, these rows of cows can range from four to sixty at a time.
In rotary parlors, The cows are loaded one at a time onto the platform as it slowly rotates. The milker stands near the entry to the parlor and puts the cups on the cows as they move past. By the time the platform has completed almost a full rotation, another milker or a machine removes the cups and the cow steps backwards off the platform and then walks to her feed.
Milking machines are held in place automatically by a vacuum system that draws the ambient air pressure down to 15 to 21 pounds of vacuum. The vacuum is also used to lift milk vertically through small diameter hoses, into the receiving can. A milk lift pump draws the milk from the receiving can through large diameter stainless steel piping, through the plate cooler, then into a refrigerated bulk tank.
Milk is extracted from the cow's udder by flexible rubber sheaths known as liners or inflations that are surrounded by a rigid air chamber. A pulsating flow of ambient air and vacuum is applied to the inflation's air chamber during the milking process. When ambient air is allowed to enter the chamber, the vacuum inside the inflation causes the inflation to collapse around the cow's teat, squeezing the milk out of teat in a similar fashion as a baby calf's mouth massaging the teat. When the vacuum is reapplied in the chamber the flexible rubber inflation relaxes and opens up, preparing for the next squeezing cycle.
It takes the average cow three to five minutes to give her milk. Some cows are faster or slower. Slow-milking cows may take up to fifteen minutes to let down all their milk. Milking speed is only minorly related to the quantity of milk the cow produces - milking speed is a separate factor from milk quantity; milk quantity is not determinative of milking speed. Because most milkers milk cattle in groups, the milker can only process a group of cows at the speed of the slowest-milking cow. For this reason, many farmers will cull slow-milking cows.
The extracted milk passes through a strainer and plate heat exchangers before entering the tank, where it can be stored safely for a few days at approximately 3°C or around 42°F. At pre-arranged times, a milk truck arrives and pumps the milk from the tank for transport to a dairy factory where it will be pasteurized and processed into many products.
[edit] Animal waste from large dairies Dairy CAFO - EPAAs measured in phosphorus, the waste output of 5,000 cows roughly equals a municipality of 70,000 people.[1] In the U.S., dairy operations with more than 1,000 cows meet the EPA definition of a CAFO (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation), and are subject to EPA regulations.[2] For example, in the San Joaquin Valley of California a number of dairies have been established on a very large scale. Each dairy consists of several modern milking parlor set-ups operated as a single enterprise. Each milking parlor is surrounded by a set of 3 or 4 loafing barns housing 1,500 or 2,000 cattle. Some of the larger dairies have planned 10 or more series of loafing barns and milking parlors in this arrangement, so that the total operation may include as many as 15,000 or 20,000 cows. The milking process for these dairies is similar to a smaller dairy with a single milking parlor but repeated several times. The size and concentration of cattle creates major environmental issues associated with manure handling and disposal, which requires substantial areas of cropland (a ratio of 5 or 6 cows to the acre, or several thousand acres for dairies of this size) for manure spreading and dispersion, or several-acre methane digesters. Air pollution from methane gas associated with manure management also is a major concern. As a result, proposals to develop dairies of this size can be controversial and provoke substantial opposition from environmentalists including the Sierra Club and local activists.[3][4][5]
The potential impact of large dairies was demonstrated when a massive manure spill occurred on a 5,000-cow dairy in Upstate New York, contaminating a 20-mile stretch of the Black River, and killing 375,000 fish. On Aug. 10, 2005, a manure storage lagoon collapsed releasing several million gallons of manure into the Black River. Subsequently the New York Department of Environmental Conservation mandated a settlement package of $2.2 million against the dairy.[6]
[edit] Use of hormonesFurther information: Bovine somatotropin Approximately 22% of dairy cows in the US are injected with recombinant growth hormones known as recombinant BST or rBGH to maintain slightly higher milk production.[7] The use of rBST is regarded as controversial due to its effects on animal and possibly human health. While the European Union, Japan, Australia and Canada have banned rBST[8] due to such concerns, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration maintains that no "significant difference" has been found between milk from treated and non-treated cows.[9]
[edit] Management of the dairy herdModern dairy farmers use milking machines and sophisticated plumbing systems to harvest and store the milk from the cows, which are usually milked twice or thrice daily. During the warm months, in the northern hemisphere, cows may be allowed to graze in their pastures, both day and night, and are brought into the barn only to be milked. Many barns also incorporate tunnel ventilation into the architecture of the barn structure. This ventilation system is highly efficient and involves opening both ends of the structure allowing cool air to blow through the building. Farmers with this type of structure keep cows inside during the summer months to prevent sunburn and damage to udders. During the winter months, especially in northern climates, the cows may spend the majority of their time inside the barn, which is warmed by their collective body heat. Even in winter, the heat produced by the cattle requires the barns to be ventilated for cooling purposes. Many modern facilities, and particularly those in tropical areas, keep all animals inside at all times to facilitate herd management. Housing the cow can be either loose housed or stalls (called cow cubicles in UK).
Holstein cows on a dairy, Comboyne, NSWIn the southern hemisphere milking animals are more likely to spend most of their lives outside on pasture.
There is little research available on dimensions required for cow stalls, and much housing can be out of date, however increasingly companies are making farmers aware of the benefits, in terms of animal welfare, health and milk production.
The production of milk requires that the cow be in lactation, which is a result of the cow having given birth to a calf. The cycle of insemination, pregnancy, parturition, and lactation, followed by a "dry" period before insemination can recur, requires a period of 12 to 16 months for each cow. Dairy operations therefore included both the production of milk and the production of calves. Bull calves are either castrated and raised as steers for beef production or raised for veal. As the size of herds has increased, the conditions in which large numbers of veal calves are raised, fed and marketed on larger dairies also have provoked controversy among animal rights activists.
[edit] Dairy farming in the worldIn the United States, the top four dairy states are, in order by total milk production, California, Wisconsin, New York, and Pennsylvania.[citation needed] Dairy farming is also an important industry in Florida, Minnesota, Ohio and Vermont.[10]
In Pennsylvania, the dairy industry is the number one industry in the state. Pennsylvania is home to 8,500 farms and 555,000 dairy cows. Milk produced in Pennsylvania yields about US$1.5 million in farm income every year, and is sold to various states up and down the east coast.[11]
The world's largest exporter of dairy products is New Zealand.[citation needed] Japan is the world's largest importer of dairy products.
There follows two lists of countries by milk production (MT = million tonnes).
Table 1: World production not including countries in the European Union.
Rank Country Production (MT/yr)[a] 1 India 96.1 2 United States 67.2 3 Russia 32.8 4 Brazil 23.3 5 China 16.8 6 New Zealand 14.6 7 Australia 10.6 8 Mexico 9.8 9 Turkey 9.5 10 Japan 8.4 11 Canada 8.0 12 Argentina 8.0 13 Switzerland 3.9 14 South Africa 2.6 15 South Korea 2.4 16 Norway 1.6
Notes:
a Source, unless otherwise noted: 2005 OECD Agricultural Outlook Tables, 1970-2014, OECD, 2003, <http://www.oecd.org/searchResult/0,3400,en_2825_293564_1_1_1_1_1,00.html>. Retrieved on 29 October 2007 The EU is the largest milk producer in the world, with 143.7 million tonnes in 2003. This data, encompassing the present 25 member countries, can be further broken down into the production of the original 15 member countries, with 122 million tonnes, and the new 10 mainly former Eastern European countries with 21.7 million tonnes.[12]
Table 1: Milk production data for EU countries.
Rank Country Production (MT/yr)[a] 1 Germany 28.5 2 France 24.6 3 United Kingdom 15.0 4 Poland 11.9 5 Netherlands 11.0 6 Italy 10.8 7 Spain 6.6 8 Ireland 5.4 9 Denmark 4.7 10 Sweden 3.2 11 Austria 3.2 12 Belgium 3.1 13 Czech Republic 2.7 14 Finland 2.5 15 Hungary 1.9 16 Portugal 1.9 17 Lithuania 1.8
Notes:
a Source, unless otherwise noted: Production of cow's milk and milk deliveries to dairies, European union by country, MDC Datum, 2003, <http://www.mdcdatum.org.uk/MilkSupply/euproduction.html>. Retrieved on 29 October 2007
[edit] Dairy competitionMost milk-consuming countries have a local dairy farming industry, and most producing countries maintain significant subsidies and trade barriers to protect domestic producers from foreign competition[citation needed]. In large countries, dairy farming tends to be geographically clustered in regions with abundant natural water supplies (both for feed crops and for cattle)[citation needed] and relatively inexpensive land (even under the most generous subsidy regimes, dairy farms have poor return on capital). New Zealand, the fourth largest dairy producing country, does not apply any subsidies to dairy production[citation needed].
The milking of cows was traditionally a labor-intensive operation and still is in less developed countries. Small farms need several people to milk and care for only a few dozen cows, though for many farms these employees have traditionally been the children of the farm family, giving rise to the term "family farm".
Advances in technology have mostly led to the radical redefinition of "family farms" in industrialized countries such as the United States. With farms of hundreds of cows producing large volumes of milk, the larger and more efficient dairy farms are more able to weather severe changes in milk price and operate profitably, while "traditional" very small farms generally do not have the equity or cashflow to do so. The common public perception of large corporate farms supplanting smaller ones is generally a misconception, as many small family farms expand to take advantage of economies of scale, and incorporate the business to limit the legal liabilities of the owners and simplify such things as tax management.[citation needed]
Before large scale mechanization arrived in the 1950s, keeping a dozen milk cows for the sale of milk was profitable[citation needed]. Now most dairies must have more than one hundred cows being milked at a time in order to be profitable, with other cows and heifers waiting to be "freshened" to join the milking herd[citation needed]. In New Zealand the average herd size, depending on the region, is about 350 cows[1].
Herd size in the US varies between 1,200 on the West Coast and Southwest, where large farms are commonplace, to roughly 50 in the Northeast, where land-base is a significant limiting factor to herd size.[dubious – discuss] The average herd size in the U.S. is about one hundred cows per farm.

Poultry Farming

2008-06-12T07:24:00.002-07:00

Poultry farming is the practice of raising poultry, such as chickens, turkeys, ducks geese, as a subcategory of animal husbandry, for the purpose of farming meat or eggs for food. The vast majority of poultry are farmed using factory farming techniques, according to the Worldwatch Institute, 74 percent of the world's poultry meat, and 68 percent of eggs are produced this way.[1]
The contrasting method of poultry farming is free range, and friction between these two main methods has led to long term issues of ethical consumerism. Opponents of factory farming argue that it harms the environment and creates health risks, as well as abusing the animals themselves.[2][3][4] In 2002, the United Kingdom also investigated the state of its own poultry farming methods with aims to investigate "animal welfare standards."[5] The Vegetarian Economy and Green Agriculture (VEGA) research group also states that factory farming of poultry in South-East Asia is a key cause of Avian influenza.[6] However the same has also been said of free-range farming.[7]
In return, proponents of factory farming highlight its increased productivity, stating that the animals are looked after in state-of-the-art confinement facilities and are happy,[8] that it is needed to feed the growing global human population, and that it protects the environment.[9]
Techniques
[edit] Free range Free Range Chickens being fed outdoors.Main article: Free rangeFree range poultry farming consists of poultry permitted to roam freely instead of being contained in any manner. The principle is to allow the animals as much freedom as possible, to live out their instinctual behaviors in a reasonably natural way, regardless of whether or not they are eventually killed for meat. In the UK, the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs says that a free range chicken must have daytime access to open-air runs during at least half of their life. Unlike in the United States, this definition also applies to eggs. The European Union regulates marketing standards for egg farming which specifies a minimum condition for Free Range Eggs states that "hens have continuous daytime access to open-air runs, except in the case of temporary restrictions imposed by veterinary authorities".[10]
[edit] YardingMain article: Yarding Ducks and other poultryWhile often confused with free range farming, yarding is actually a separate method by which a hutch and fenced off area outside are combined when farming poultry. The distinction is that free-range poultry are either totally unfenced, or the fence is so distant that it has little influence on their freedom of movement. This is common technique used by small farms in the Northeastern portion of the US. Daily releases out of hutches or coops allows for instinctuial nature for the chickens with protections from predators. The hens usually lay eggs either on the ground of the coop or in baskets if provided by the farmer. This technique can be complicated if used with roosters though, mostly because of difficulty getting them into the coop and to clean the coop while it is inside. This territorial nature is apparent while outside in which they have a brood of hens and sometimes even informal land claims. This can endanger people unaware of the existence of the territories who are attacked by the larger birds.
[edit] Factory farming Warehouses in which chickens are confined in a "concentrated animal feeding operation (CAFO).In factory (also known as battery) poultry farming, particularly for eggs, birds are kept in rows of cages, and their environment, ventilation, heating and lighting are dictated automatically.[11] Extra lighting can be added beyond normal daylight hours to facilitate more egg production, and extra hormones and growth stimulants are added to the feed to encourage egg production or weight gain depending on whether the birds are being farmed for eggs or meat.[6]

Advantages and disadvantages
Free range
[edit] AdvantagesFree range poultry farming has the advantage of enabling the poultry to move around, foraging for their natural diet and living in cleaner conditions than in battery farming. In some farms, the manure from free range poultry can be used to benefit crops.[12]
[edit] DisadvantagesThe practical construction of a free range poultry farm can present more problems than the battery alternative. Finding suitable land with adequate drainage to minimise worms and coocidial oocysts, suitable protection from prevailing winds, good ventilation, access and protection from predators can be difficult.[13] Excess heat, cold or damp can have a harmful effect on the animals and their productivity.[13] Unlike battery farms, free range farmers have little control over the food their animals come across which can lead to unreliable productivity.[13]
Free range farming in the UK, which accounts for 26% of production,[6] has come under similar criticism as battery farming in terms of animal welfare. This is due to the social abnormalities of having large numbers of birds in an outdoor space.[6] Beak trimming due to cannibalism and infighting is common in this form of poultry farming as well as in batteries. Diseases are common and the animals are vulnerable to predators.[6] In South-East Asia, a lack of disease control in free range farming has been associated with outbreaks of Avian influenza.[7]
[edit] Factory farming
[edit] AdvantagesThe small cages restrict movement, and allow for more birds per unit area, and this allows for greater productivity and lower space and food costs, with more efforts put into egg laying.[6] Battery farming is quicker, more economical and practical, and growth and output can be specifically controlled. The poultry are at less risk from predators and outdoor elements such as cold, heat, wind or damp, all of which can have significant impact on yield and health of the animals.[13]
[edit] DisadvantagesThe small environments reduce stimulation of the poultry, which often results in pecking each other or themselves whereas in the outdoors they would have other stimulation.[6] A study by the Agricultural and Food Research Council in 1992 also found that 50% of battery farmed poultry had bone disorders such as osteoporosis[11] or breakages.[14] Battery farms are also at greater risk of fire, due to the amount of electrical equipment and the likelihood of rodents chewing through the wiring.[13]
Battery farming is also the subject of much criticism and the products are often less popular than free-range alternatives,[15][16] and the mislabling of one as the other has led to outrage in some consumer groups.[17] The use of gas to kill the birds[11] prior to harvesting was also criticized by Dr. Mohan Raj of United Poultry Concern who stated that current use of carbon dioxide fails to cleanly kill the birds, causing a "a painfully slow death of suffocation"[6] VEGA states that "millions" of male chicks are killed in this way as they do not produce eggs. Debeaking is also heavily criticised due to the psychological effects and pain involved.[11] the act of forced staravtion to reduce periods of off-lay are also unpopular.[11]
Health concerns are not limited to the animals in battery farming, however. The US Department of Health released a list of risks to humans working in poultry battery farms and those living nearby, which included respiratory illnesses and musculoskeletal injuries, infections, odors and flies and chemical and infectious compounds in the soil which included the mixtures of antibodies, pathogens, nutrients, pesticides, hormones and other chemicals that are found in or are administered to battery poultry. Trace elements of copper or arsenic were also found.[3]
Outbreaks of Avian influenza have also been blamed on battery farming in South-East Asia.[18] Battery farming is prohibited in a number of countries, including Switzerland and Sweden, with movements in favour of banning active in the United Kingdom, Australia and Denmark.[11]

Fast Food Facts

2008-06-12T07:24:00.001-07:00

What is fast food and why is it so popular?
Fast food is any food that is quick, convenient, and usually inexpensive. You can buy fast food just about anywhere that sells food and snacks. Vending machines and drive-thru restaurants are probably the most common places to find fast food. It's so popular because for under $5.00 you can usually get a meal that's satisfying. But fast food is inexpensive because it is usually made with cheaper ingredients such as high fat meat and foods that contain lots of unhealthy fats (saturated and trans fats) and cholesterol, instead of nutritious foods such as lean meats, fresh fruits, and vegetables.
Is fast food bad?
There is no such thing as a "bad" food. All foods can fit into a healthy meal plan! It's true that fast food is usually high in fat, calories, cholesterol, and sodium, but eating fast food every once in a while is not going to cause you problems. If you eat too much fast food over a long period of time, though, it can lead to health problems like high blood pressure, heart disease, and obesity.

Is some fast food healthier than others?
If you are having fast food more than once a week, try to make healthier choices. Here are some tips:
Choose foods that are broiled over fried such as a grilled chicken sandwich instead of fried chicken or chicken nuggets. Choose soups that are not cream based. Have low-fat salad dressings instead of the full-fat kind. Have a salad or soup instead of fries. Use mustard or ketchup instead of mayonnaise. Order smaller entrée portions in general. For example: instead of a large sub, try a small sub with a side salad or piece of fruit. Order smalls instead of "super-sizing." A large fry has 540 calories and 26 grams of fat, but a small fry has about 60% less fat and calories (210 calories and 10 grams of fat). When ordering a sub or sandwich, select leaner meats like turkey or grilled chicken instead of fried items, like a burgers or steak and cheese sandwiches. Choose water, low-fat milk, or diet sodas instead of regular sodas, fruit drinks, and milkshakes. When ordering pizza, add veggies instead of meat. If fruit and veggies are available, try to add them into your meal. For example, have lettuce and tomato on sandwiches or burgers. Where can I find nutrition facts about fast food?
You can check out your favorite fast food place or restaurant on the internet. You can find the company web site by doing a google search. Once you have found the web site, look for the "nutrition section". There is usually a link on the home page to the nutrition section where you will find nutrition facts, including fat, cholesterol, sodium, protein, calories, and more. Most companies have a web site which includes useful nutrition information. This will help you make good choices when eating out!

Types of Vehicle

2008-06-11T08:35:00.001-07:00

Vehicles are non-living means of transport. They are most often man-made (e.g. bicycles, cars, motorcycles, trains, ships, boats, and aircraft), although some other means of transport which are not made by man can also be called vehicles; examples include icebergs and floating tree trunks.Vehicles may be propelled by animals, for instance, a chariot or an ox-cart. However, animals on their own, though used as a means of transport, are not called vehicles. This includes humans carrying another human, for example a child or a disabled person.Vehicles that do not travel on land are often called craft, such as watercraft, sailcraft, aircraft, hovercraft and spacecraftLand vehicles are broadly classified by what is used to apply steering and drive forces against the ground: wheeled, tracked, railed, and/or skied.The word vehicle itself comes from the Latin vehiculum.Bicyclesee Bicycles (see also Vehicular Cycling) see main article History of the bicycle
[edit] Tricyclesee Tricycle
[edit] Quadricyclesee Quadricycle
[edit] Velomobilesee Velomobile
[edit] Electric road carriagessee electric vehicle see history of the electric vehicle
[edit] Steam road carriagesee steam car
[edit] Steam tricycleSee steam tricycle At the other end of the scale much lighter steam vehicles have been constructed such as the steam tricycle from the Comte de Dion in 1887.
[edit] Petroleum (gasoline / diesel) motor-carriagesSee motor-carriage See Ford's model T See Automobile
[edit] Road trainsA road train consists of a conventional heavy truck pulling three trailers or more, used in rural areas of Australia to move bulky loads such as livestock efficiently.
[edit] The motorcycleSee Motorcycle See Gottlieb Daimler
[edit] Mechanical rail-vehiclessee Trains see Trams
[edit] Mechanical water vehiclessee Boats see Ships
[edit] Mechanical under-water vehiclessee submarines see submersibles see diving bells see diving chambers
[edit] Mechanical land and water vehiclessee Amphibious vehicle see Amphibious ATV see Hovercraft
[edit] Mechanical air vehiclessee aircraft see Wing-In-Ground effect vehicle
[edit] Mechanical snow vehiclessee snowmobile
[edit] Types of vehiclesAuto rickshaws Bicycles Buses Cars Coaches Vans More...
[edit] Legislation
[edit] European UnionIn the European Union the classifications for vehicle types are defined by [1]:Commission Directive 2001/116/EC of 20 December 2001, adapting to technical progress Council Directive 70/156/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to the type-approval of motor vehicles and their trailers[2] Directive 2002/24/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 March 2002 relating to the type-approval of two or three-wheeled motor vehicles and repealing Council Directive 92/61/EEC European Community, is based on the Community's WVTA (whole vehicle type-approval) system. Under this system, manufacturers can obtain certification for a vehicle type in one Member State if it meets the EC technical requirements and then market it EU-wide with no need for further tests. Total technical harmonization has already been achieved in three vehicle categories (passenger cars, motorcycles and tractors) and will soon be extended to other vehicle categories (coaches and utility vehicles). It is essential that European car manufacturers be ensured access to as large a market as possible.While the Community type-approval system allows manufacturers to benefit fully from the opportunities offered by the internal market, worldwide technical harmonization in the context of the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE) offers them a market which extends beyond European borders.

Online Expositions and Trade Shows Management

2008-06-11T08:16:00.000-07:00

How to use the Web to expand exhibitor benefits & streamline the exhibit-space application process to cut costs.Just as today’s meeting landscape makes it challenging to attract more convention-goers, it’s also difficult to sell more exhibit booths. In many industries, convention attendance is still down, and exhibitors are demanding more from trade shows while wanting to pay lower fees. To make serving them even harder, the exhibit sales process can be cumbersome, paper-driven, and labor-intensive.But just as the Web can help your association manage its convention marketing and management, I believe the Web can help you with your trade show. Here are 17 ways to use the Web to expand exhibitor benefits, market your convention online, and streamline the space-application process to cut costs.Create benefits for exhibitors1. Develop an information-rich convention/trade show Web site. This Web site could contain detailed information for attendees and exhibitors alike, including a searchable database of exhibitors, exhibitor forms and applications, and schedule of events.2. Feature a searchable database of exhibitors. If possible, give attendees and site visitors the ability to browse the database using different sorts--for example, by company name, product category, geographic coverage, etc.3. Incorporate exhibitors into a personal planner. Many convention sites now include an online planner that allows attendees to create their own schedule of educational sessions to attend. You can enrich the planner and benefit exhibitors by allowing attendees to select exhibitors they wish to visit and add them to their planners.4. Post the next year’s Web site ASAP after this year’s show. Getting next year’s site online, and including an exhibitor search, will benefit exhibitors that sign up early for booth space.Create benefits for networking5. Give attendees the ability to schedule appointments with exhibitors.Appointments could be made through e-mail links or a sophisticated appointment-scheduling application that supports requests, approvals, denials, appointment-conflict management, etc. 6. Allow exhibitors to purchase attendee lists. Whether you give or sell attendee lists, be sure your privacy policy reflects this practice.7. Allow one-time e-mailings to attendees.Although most attendees would not be excited at the idea of giving exhibitors carte-blanche access to their e-mail addresses, one-time e-mail blasts, perhaps sent through the association, might be a good way to benefit exhibitors and attendees alike.Create additional marketing opportunities8. Allow exhibitors to have, or purchase, expanded exhibitor search listings. Since the Web doesn’t suffer from the same space constraints that printed materials do, allow exhibitors to have expanded descriptions, logos, product announcements, contact information, etc. 9. Give exhibitors the ability to sponsor portions of the Web site and e-mail campaigns. Although studies have shown that Web site visitors increasingly ignore banner ads, embedded text ads in e-mail campaigns can be very effective for advertisers.10. Create sections of the Web site for featured exhibitors or new product ideas. These sections could be paid or based on reviews by staff or members. Either way, featured areas give Web site visitors information about new exhibitors and products outside of the actual trade show, and give exhibitors additional exposure to prospects.Streamline the exhibit-space application process11. If your association uses a commercial membership database, ask your vendor or reseller if the system has modules that allow you to integrate online space applications with your back office. 12. Further integrate space applications by requiring a login. Although potentially cumbersome to exhibitors, a login allows you to associate a space application with the proper company (and track its history) and calculate the proper booth fees.13. Make sure your online space application automatically sends out acknowledgments for space applications, booth assignments, and payments.14. Allow exhibitor contacts to verify their directory listings before the exhibitor directory goes to print.Measure your results15. Evaluate whether exhibitor sign-ups increased overall as a result of your Web activities. Did you receive more inquiries from prospective exhibitors? How many were you able to turn into new or returning exhibitors?

Simple Interior Design Tips

2008-06-11T08:11:00.000-07:00

A modern home owner today enjoys a lot of freedom when it comes to how they design the interiors of their homes. The philosophy of design is very much in-sync with a postmodern world view where rules and regulations are thrown out the window in favor of an almost anything-goes approach. But beware: even in chaos you will find order.
Before you begin ask yourself two questions:
1. What do I want to improve?
2. What is my interior design budget?
Your interior design options can range from small to large and from inexpensive to very expensive.
You may be able to solve the problem of your lounge room with a splash of colorful pillows and a strategically hung mirror or you may need something more drastic like a complete change of wall color with a feature wall to boot.
The important thing is to be able to pinpoint exactly what is not working for you now. Is it really the color of your walls? Or would a framed poster and showcase light fighting do the trick? Is it really your drab furniture? Or would a brightly colored throw rug and pillows make the dramatic change you are looking for?
In order to answer these questions you need to step into your room and imagine you are expecting a new friend to visit. What would this person see? How would you feel you could better impress this person? Then always try to answer your ideas with the smallest possible changes first rather than the most drastic.
Color is one of the best ways to create the illusion you want. Adding color to your interior design need not be drastic (as in wall painting or new furniture) but easy and something you can do in a day. Instead of painting a wall, hang a mirror, clock, shelves or piece of artwork. Instead of buying a new coffee table, decorate your existing one with books, candles and a large bouquet of freshly cut flowers.
The most important rule of successful interior design is the rule of simplicity.

Lifestyle Concepts

2008-06-10T03:47:00.000-07:00

Tips for responsible use of debit cards 1. Know which type of debit card you have, and ask your bank whether you have a choice. Some consumers have complained that the bank changed their ATM cards to debit cards that do not require personal identification numbers without letting them know.2. Always protect your ATM card and keep it in a safe place, just as you would cash, credit cards or checks.3. Do not leave your debit card lying around the house or on your desk at work.4. If your card is lost or stolen, or you suspect it is being used fraudulently, report it immediately to your bank.5. Close your account and ask your bank for a new account number and PIN.6. Hold on to receipts from your debit transactions. Don't throw them in public trash cans or even in your own trash without first shredding them. Crooks have been known to "dumpster-dive" for documents that have account numbers and other personal information.7. Memorize your PIN, and do not write it on your card.8. Don't choose a PIN a smart thief could figure out, such as numbers corresponding to your birth date or your phone number.9. Never give your PIN to anyone. Keep it private.10. Always know how much money you have in your account, and review bank statements carefully. Don't forget that your debit card may allow you to access money that you have set aside to cover a check that has not yet cleared your bank.11. Keep your receipts in one place for easy retrieval and better oversight of your account.12. Never give your debit card number over the phone unless you initiated the call and are certain that the recipient is legitimate.
Credit Card Tips
Are You Ready For a Credit Card?You may already have a credit card, but if you don't, you can be sure there will be many opportunities to get one once you arrive on campus.Many credit companies set up tables in the common areas of college campuses to encourage students to sign up for credit cards. Often, they give away trinkets such as T-shirts, water bottles, frisbees, coffee mugs, etc. in exchange for having you fill out an application. Sound easy? It is, but think twice before you do it.Unfortunately, many of the credit cards offered on campus may not be a good value for students. According to a study conducted by the U.S. Public Interest Research Group (PIRG), students who obtain credit cards at campus tables have higher unpaid balances than those who do not. Carrying high, unpaid balances is one of the quickest ways to incur too much debt and fall behind in payments.Why do Credit Card Companies Target Students?Surprisingly, students are a good credit risk, despite the fact that they often do not have jobs and are also borrowing student loans. Research has shown that student borrowers are valuable customers because they tend to stay loyal to their first card, continuing to make purchases for many years to come.The Advantages of Credit CardsLike loans, using credit cards can help you build a positive credit history. This can enhance your ability to receive a private student loan, buy a car, rent an apartment, get a job, and eventually, try to buy a house. Of course, there are other advantages to having a credit card including:Security in emergencies;Reduced need to carry cash or checks; andEnhanced personal responsibility and independence.However, only one national card like a VISA or a MasterCard is necessary to receive these benefits.How Credit Cards are BilledUnlike repayment on a traditional loan, such as a student or car loan, credit cards do not allow you to spread the amount you owe over a fixed period of time. Instead, you are required to make a minimum monthly payment, which is the smallest amount you can pay and still meet your cardholder agreement (the terms you agree to when signing up for the card).The minimum payment is usually 2 percent of your outstanding balance. Unfortunately, by paying only the minimum each month instead of paying off your entire balance, your debt will continue to grow. Many credit card companies also charge late fees (usually 2 percent of the outstanding balance), and higher interest rates on cash advances.So, Are You Ready for a Credit Card?As a student, you will have to decide for yourself if you can handle the responsibility of a credit card. They are easy to get but not so easy to manage, especially if you end up with a high, unpaid balance on which interest is accruing, but payments are not being made. According to the PIRG study, of the 79 percent of surveyed students who use credit cards for multiple purposes, only 13 percent reported limiting credit card use to emergencies.When making your decision about a credit card, ask yourself the following:Do I need a credit card?Can I afford a credit card?Will I be able to pay off my balance each month?If you decide to apply for a credit card, be a smart consumer and shop around. Look for a company that offers the following:Low interest rates or finance charges (combined, they are called APR)Low or no annual feesA grace period (time during which no payments are due) before finance charges are postedOther benefits including purchase warranties, free gas, airline miles, etc. Credit Card TipsCredit cards can be helpful in emergencies or if you are able to pay off the balance each month, but be wary! Credit cards can also get you into trouble. Here are some helpful hints on using credit cards: FeesWatch out for carrying balances. Some cards charge 20% or more in interest. (Interest is usually called "finance charges" on your statements.)Fixed rates aren't always fixed! A credit card company can change the rate by informing you 15 days before changing the rate.Look at your statement carefully and call the company right away if you have any questions.There is usually a large finance charge for cash advances and interest begins accruing as soon as you take the money out, not after the next statement closing.Be aware of annual fees. Many times you are charged $50 or more just to have the card.Watch out for introductory offers! When you receive a credit card offer in the mail with a low rate, it may expire in three or six months. Note when and by how much the rate increases after the "introductory offer" expires. You may not remember when it expires, but the card company will.Think about your purchases. If you are not able to afford the purchase now, chances are you won't be able to afford it in a month when the credit card bill comes in! If you get behindCut your recreational expenses.Call your credit card company. They may be willing to work out a repayment schedule with you.Develop a budget and stick to it! Everyone makes mistakes, but credit will follow you and hurt your eligibility for mortgages or loans down the road.Look into credit counseling services. Many offer educational programs or individual counseling sessions to help you get back on track. Establish and maintain a positive credit historyAnnualCreditReport.com was created by the three credit reporting companies, Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. Under the Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act (FACT Act), consumers can request and obtain a free credit report once every 12 months from each of the three credit reporting companies.
A Short Guide to Succeeding in Online Matchmaking Looking for love? When looking to meet the person of your dreams, online dating may just not be enough. What you need is online matchmaking. Just what is online matchmaking?Matchmaking can be described as a process of introducing two people with a view towards marriage. Online matchmaking is simply matchmaking via technology. How does it work?A matchmaking site requires one to input lots of details about yourself as well as the type of person you are looking for. This is in order to find your most suitable prospect(s), beyond mere physical attributes.Advantages of Online MatchmakingThere many advantages to online matchmaking but the top ones are:1. Numbers: A large and wide network of people all seeking mates. This offers you the best chance of finding someone who is also looking for somebody just like you.2. Convenience: search for your soul mate any time of day or night, in the privacy of your own home.Now let’s look at what you need to do in order to find a soul mate online.Getting StartedIn order to succeed in finding your soul mate online, you need to compile six lists. These six lists will help you come up with a lively, attention-grabbing profile.Not only that, but this will also help make answering online matchmaking questionnaires much easier. The six lists are as follows:1. Things you must: these are things that your partner must have (personality-wise as opposed to material-wise) in order for you to be happy with him/her.2. Things that would be nice to have but you can do without. You know, are the icings on the cake.3. Things you cannot stand (your “no-no’s”). These are characteristic that you absolutely will not tolerate.4. Your endearing characteristics and attributes. 5. Your activities, interests and hobbies.6. Things you must improve in yourself.A look into your lifestyle and activities will help you come up with the above lists. If necessary, enlist the help of a close friend or relative. This might seem to be a lot of work, but it is well worth the effort. Remember it is your soul mate that you seek.Another way to come up with a list of things that you want or don’t want in a partner is to take a look at your past relationships. What are the things that you really liked? These are things you want. What did you not like or what made the relationship(s) flop? What characteristics caused problems in the past? These are the things you want to avoid.Once your six lists, you are now ready to begin searching for your soul mate. The best route is through a reputable online matchmaking site. Not to be confused with a general dating site, a matchmaking site is tailored towards serious relationships.Types of Online Matchmaking SitesThere are, basically, two types of matchmaking sites:1. Those that do the matching for you. You cannot view other members’ profiles. They inform you when a compatible match has been found. With this type, you have little control over whom you get matched with. Some of the most successful matchmaking sites operate this way.2. Those that do the matching for you as well as let you do the searching. With these, you have more control and flexibility, though this does not necessarily guarantee greater success.Which Type of Matchmaking Site?It is not the place of this article to tell you which type of online matchmaking site to go for: that is a personal decision. But you cannot compromise on the quality of the site as you would be compromising on the quality of your love.In this day and age of quick fixes, some people expect to sign up with a matchmaking site today and find the person of their dreams tomorrow. This is possible, but unlikely. Patience is a virtue.Expect to communicate and meet with several prospects before finding the right one. It might take days, it might take weeks, or it might take months. It’s all worth it if you finally nail “the one”, don’t you think?
Buying a Home for the First Time
Buying a Home for the First TimeOn this website, you'll find a wealth of information the explains the process of buying a house from every possible angle. As you can see from the menu tabs up top, this information has been organized by the various stages of the home buying process. Here's an explanation of those stages:Getting StartedAre you truly ready to buy a new home in today's market? Do you know how to prepare financially for the home buying process? These questions are best answered early on in the process. So if you're new to the process of buying a home and need help getting off the ground, start with this section of our website.Home Buying ProcessIt pays to be informed about the process of buying a new home — especially when it's your first time buying. The process can be overwhelming to a first-time buyer, but you can prevent this simply understanding the steps involved. In this section, we will go through the steps to buying a new home in detail, from house hunting to settlement.Finding a Real Estate AgentFinding the right real estate agent can make all the difference in your home buying process, especially if you're a first time home buyer new to the whole process. A good real estate agent can steer you through the buying process and help you avoid costly mistakes. In this section, we'll show you how to go about finding the ideal real estate agent to help you buy a house successfully.About Your CreditCredit is an important topic for home buyers. When buying a house you can be sure that mortgage lenders will review your credit with a microscope. So it pays to have a look at your own credit first. We will show you how to obtain your credit report and check it for accuracy. We'll even talk about ways you can improve your credit prior to buying a home.Checklists for Buying a HouseA checklist is a useful tool when buying a new house — especially when it's your first time going through the process. A good checklist will keep you on track and help you remember what features to look for when house hunting. In this section, you'll find a variety of home buying checklists you can use along the way.Types of Mortgage LoansFixed-rate mortgages. ARM. Balloon loans. When buying a house for the first time you'll hear a lot about the different types of mortgage loans. It can be confusing when you're not informed. So let's make sure you're well informed about the various mortgage types. In this section of the website, you'll find plenty of information on the different types of mortgage loans.Home Buying ToolsIn this new section of the website, we have gathered some helpful tools that will simplify the process of buying a house successfully. Here you'll find first time home buyer tools to help you obtain your credit information, find an agent, get a home insurance quote and more.Buying Foreclosure PropertiesDue to popular demand, we have added a new section to the website that explains the process of buying a foreclosed home (and why it's such a popular topic). Though it's not for everyone, buying foreclosure properties can be a way to get a home for less than market value.
Buying a Home The homebuying process can seem complicated, but if you take things step-by-step, you will soon be holding the keys to your own home!Nine steps to buying a homeFigure out how much you can affordKnow your rightsShop for a loanLearn about homebuying programsShop for a homeMake an offerGet a home inspectionShop for homeowners insuranceSign papersStep 1: Figure out how much you can affordWhat you can afford depends on your income, credit rating, current monthly expenses, downpayment and the interest rate. The calculators below can help, but it is best to visit a lender to find out for sure.How much home can you afford?Buying vs. RentingHome EconomicsNeed help with your downpayment and/or closing costs?Homebuying programs in your stateA housing counselor can help you figure out how to manage and pay off your debt, and start saving for that downpayment!Find a housing counselor near youStep 2: Know your rightsFair Housing: Equal Opportunity for All - brochureReal Estate Settlement Procedures Act (RESPA)Borrower's rightsPredatory lendingBack to Top Step 3: Shop for a loanSave money by doing your homework. Talk to several lenders, compare costs and interest rates, negotiate to get a better deal. Consider getting pre-approved for a loan.Looking for the best mortgage: shop, compare, negotiate - brochureLet FHA help youWhy Ask for an FHA Loan?Learn about interest only loansStep 4: Learn about homebuying programsHomebuying programs in your stateFHA loan programs offer lower downpayments and are a good option for first-time homebuyers.Let FHA help youHUD's special homebuying programsGood Neighbor Next Door (formerly known as Teacher/Officer/Firefighter Next Door)Hurricane Evacuees discounted salesHomeownership for public housing residentsIndian Home Loan Guarantee Program (Section 184)Step 5: Shop for a homeChoose a real estate agentWish list - what features do you want?Home-shopping checklist – take this list with you when comparing homesHomes for sale (including HUD homes)"Fixer-uppers" - home purchase and repair programsManufactured (mobile) homesBuild a homeIf you choose a home in a neighborhood with a Home Owners Association (HOA), be sure to request a copy of the HOA packet, so you can review before closing.Back to Top Step 6: Make an offerDiscuss the process with your real estate agent. If the seller counters your offer, you may need to negotiate until you both agree to the terms of the sale.Making an offerStep 7: Get a home inspectionMake your offer contingent on a home inspection. An inspection will tell you about the condition of the home, and can help you avoid buying a home that needs major repairs.For Your Protection Get a Home Inspection10 Questions to ask a home inspectorStep 8: Shop for homeowners insuranceLenders require that you have homeowners insurance. Be sure to shop around.Homeowners insurance12 ways to lower your homeowners insurance costsStep 9: Sign papersYou're finally ready to go to "settlement" or "closing." Be sure to read everything before you sign!
Tips for Buying Used Cars Tips for Buying Used CarsThere are so many do's and don'ts when it comes to buying a used car. In fact you have to take care of a lot more things than you do when getting yourself a brand new car. So be prepared before you start the car buying process. Try to get as much information as you can from reviews, from your near ones and compare options.Settling on a ModelThink about your needs, your budget and your driving habits. Study about different car models, prices and its technical specifications. Finally settle on a model which suits your lifestyle and image. It will help you to narrow your choice down, when you test drive a few different cars of the same model. You can easily compare their conditions and pick the correct one without any doubt. The age of the car is very important. Payment OptionsIf you are depending on a finance company for payment, do search for good finance companies, their interest, monthly payment options, duration of loan etc and evaluate with your budget. There will be so many advertisements to lure you. Try to understand the following aspects before you apply for a loan. ! The actual price of the vehicle, ! The amount you are going to finance,! The monthly Payment & duration,! The total amount you should pay (Your loan, including service charge and interest + the initial payment).Buying LocationsYou can buy a used car from different outlets: Car dealers; who sell both new and used cars, direct from the owners, pre-owned (second hand) car showrooms etc. Buying from a dealer will be an advisable option rather than from a second hand car dealer. The cars from dealers will be systematically inspected and moreover they will offer you service and maintenance warranty. You can also insist on confirmation to tax and pollution test. Verify the dealer’s authenticity i.e for how long he has been in this business and try to get references of his already satisfied customers. News paper advertisements and other classifieds section will lead you to individual owners. Enquire the reasons for selling the car, how the car was used, and get permission for the car to be checked by your mechanic. Try to find out whether the car has been in any accident and always make sure that its condition is stable. Sale of cars from the owner will be on an "as is" basis and he may not offer you any service and maintenance warranty. Test DriveTest- driving is an essential part of car buying process. Always take the car for at least a 3-4 km test drive. Drive the car in different types of roads and observe your comfort levels during the drive. Make sure the engine starts rightly, the steering is not vibrating and there is no unusual sounds and vibrations. Vibrating steering means a front end trouble. Apply brakes properly at the speed of about 30-50 km to check that the car stops in a straight line. Check that the speedometer and mileage recorder is working. Clutch should be smooth in its operation. When releasing the clutch, the car should move gradually without uneven jerks. Try each gear and note whether the car jumps out of gear. At the end of the test-drive, park the car on clean ground and look for oil leaks from the engine or gearbox. Things to checkHaving finalized the car of your choice, now comes the main part of buying. i.e checking the car and its documents. You can spend some time checking the following things:The first parameter is the year of registration of the car. A 3-5 year old car that has traveled 14,000 to 18,000 Km a year are prime buys. Check the Odometer reading of the car and calculate with the year of manufacture. Important thing to remember is that there is a possibility of Odometer tampering irrespective of a mechanical or electronic odometer. Check the engine, it should be smooth starter. A well maintained engine would not produce any unusual noise and emit blue or black smoke while accelerating. Also check for oil spouting from exhaust.If the Tyres are not in a good condition, there is a chance of bargaining for up to 1000 rupees. Look for the wear and tear and also the alignment. Check bushings, springs and sounds from the bearings. Wheel bearings can be expensive.Check the bonnet and look whether the car has been repainted or not. Check for acid wear and tear around the battery areas, it indicates the car has not been maintained by the earlier owner.If the battery is not new, there is another chance of decreasing the price of the car by 2, 500. If the seller claims, there is an audio system in the car, check if its in working condition. Check on electrical components, lightings and dippers, cabin lights, hind lights and reverse lights and their workings. Check the AC by taking a round in the afternoon, check how it functions with a/c on / off climbing a slope.DocumentsChecking all the Documents properly before the final payment is a must. Always ask the seller for the Registration papers. These documents are required to transfer the vehicle ownership. The certificate also provide the purchaser a chance to confirm vehicle ownership. Confirm the seller is the first owner of the car.Blue book( Registration Certificate)- Check if it is a duplicate or not. Check with the RTO for further authentication. Check Engine No and Chasis number are matching with the Numbers in the Registration Papers. Check the state of registration, mentioned in the papers. The state mentioned in the paper should be the state where you are planning to use the car. If not make sure that the seller do the necessary things to transfer the registration to the state that you are planning to use. Check for the RTO Tax receipt.Insurance Certificate- This is the most important certificate of the car. Check for any prior accidents claims. This certificate is a must for any transfer by RTO.Pollution Under Control certificate - This is a must for transfer of name.BMC or Municipality certificate, if applicable. This is absolutely necessary if the car is registered in a municipal area.Road Tax:Ensure that the seller gives you the papers related to road tax or clears all payments before he sells the car to you.Other Documents :If you are planning to buy a used car that was bought on finance by the seller, remember to collect the following documents in addition to the above-mentioned ones. Try to get the original invoice of the car from the owner.NOC (No Objection Certificate): NOC issued by the finance company. This document ensures that the finance company has no claim on the car anymore.Form 35: You must keep a copy of this form duly signed by the financier.
New Car Buying Tips Identify the car you want to buyCalculate the amount you will pay for your new vehicle.Read market surveys to choose the right car.Confirm the prices and locate the dealers.Go in for the right dealChoose cars with attractive incentives and rebates.Be careful of hidden incentives.Calculate the amount you will need, in case you are taking a loan and also how much you will be paying as interest.Check the features and quality of any carCheck for the features offered and the additional optional fittings because different cars come with different packages.Check for factors that are important to you such as mileage, service network, and safety.Gather expert reviewsRead expert reviews and comments on the vehicle you are buying.Do a comparative study with other vehicles to check for added benefits.Analyze the engine power, seating capacity, mileage, and other technical specifications.Financing, Warranties and InsuranceOpt for the lowest interest car loan.Ask for incentives the manufacturer is offering.Enquire about extended warranty or service contract.Automobile insurance is a must, review insurance policies from various insurance companies to make the right choice.Check with insurance companies before you buy your new vehicle; compare these insurance rates to make the right choice.Test drive the vehicleAnalyze and be sure that the vehicle has characteristics that you are looking for.Inspect and feel the interiors and exteriors for unsightly gaps.Check for ride comfort, noise, power/acceleration, braking and handlingCheck your vehicle thoroughly before driving it home.